Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppehen Riesling Auslese 2005
Dr. Loosen is one German riesling producer that U.S. critics seem to love, particularly his spatlese and auslese wines, which tend to garner high scores. I’m a little unclear why so many U.S. magazines almost never rate dry old world riesling, and when they do, they don’t give such wines the same level of hype as the sweeter versions. And, there are sweet wines and then there are sugar dominated wines. This is a wine that, while sweet, is also balanced and clean. And, while made in an unctuous style, even more so than many other auslese’s (which refers to the ripeness of the grapes in the wine), there is still a lightness of step here that keeps the wine on the fresher side, although not quite so far as others.
The nose here had pineapple, mango, papaya and guava – a veritable tropical fruit salad. The palate continued with papaya, manga, pineapple, guava, petrol, minerals, date, apricot, prune and some candied citrus. There is amazing lightness to this wine, and balance, despite its fullness and the extreme ripeness of the grapes. It is, in fact, one of the nicest ausleses I’ve tasted so long as you are in the mood for something rich and sweet. I do think that the sheer viscosity of the wine does fatigue the palate after a while, however, and I would mark that as this wine’s big negative. Otherwise, very tasty. The Wine Spectator scored this a 95 – a rather high score in my opinion.
$55 at BCLDB