Only a small percentage of Bierzo’s wine production is white, with Godello being the dominant white grape. Godello, also known as Verdello (not to be confused with Verdejo), is pretty unknown in the wine world, probably because it tends to be grown in fairly obscure regions such as Galicia, Bierzo, Umbria and Sicilia. Godello is known to have great aromatics, similar to Albarino, and also the capacity to be aged effectively sur lees and in oak.
Luna Beberide is a fairly large producer in Bierzo, and makes this particular wine from 60 year old vines that they discovered in the region. Made with 100% Godello, the grapes are grown in the typical clay and slate soil of Bierzo. This is fermented and aged in stainless steel, which is surprising given the richness of the wine, which made me think it at least sat in oak for a while (I was just informed that this saw 6 months sur lees, so that probably explains the richness).
The nose is pretty explosive with a ton of apple and dose of minerals that I would normally only associate with Loire whites. There is also a nutty quality to the nose and some hints of richer pear. I would not hesitate to call the palate “spiky” but also rich – it has a tartness and a fullness that compliment each other quite effectively. I found some pear, orange and other citrus on the palate – but this is mostly about apple and minerals. The wine wells up immediately in the mouth, which I think comes from the intense minerality, this also mellows out and fades seamlessly into food (I paired this with a swordfish steak topped with mango/avocado salsa, which was brilliant).
This is the most Loire-like wine I’ve had from Spain (with a nod to Leah from Marquis), and I think also the best value white I’ve tried from that country. This is a Spanish white for lovers of northern French whites. And, what is particularly impressive is that Beberide can maintain this quality and price across their 20,000 bottle production of this wine. It’s truly an outstanding bargain. 13% ABV.
Excellent and Highly Recommended Value
$30 at Kitsilano Wine Cellar