The wine is made in a big upfront style and is very rich. However, there is enough going on here – such as olives, brine, and game – that make this far more varietally correct (and far better balanced) than the Skull syrah.
Some might argue that the fruit is still too ripe, and I would agree that no one with a particular love of Northern Rhone Syrah should look to this wine. That said, this is not one-dimensional nor does the alcohol become as astringent as it does in the Skull, despite a similar alcohol percentage of 15.5%. It is not, however, balanced compared to the great syrahs of the Rhone or Languedoc, nor is it particularly worth the price.
Is this the future of Washington Syrah? I see no problem with this sort of wine occupying a niche so long as it does not dominate the other wonderful and much more regionally expressive Syrahs also being made in the state such as the Waters and the Betz.
So ends this brief note. I have one more significant post coming in this series before I move into the exciting wines of Languedoc-Roussillon.
~$60 at Kitsilano Wine Cellars