Spotlight on Languedoc-Roussillon: Domaine Gauby Vieille Vignes Blanc 2005
Gauby’s old-vine white is an intriguing blend of white Carignan, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Chardonnay and Macabau. Gauby grows this mix of Spanish and French grapes with fervent non-interventionist methods and a strict no-chemical regime. The vineyards are populated with weeds and other plants that compete with the vines for nutrients. This reduces yields, forces the vines to push deeper for water and increases the quality of the fruit.
Gerard Gauby is also a strong believer in minimal use of “make-up” for his wines. For example, he prefers fermenting in cement as opposed to wood and using spontaneous fermentation with no intervention in the process of the indigenous yeast. The results are consistently outstanding.
This is a fascinating wine, beginning with petrol, green apple, lemon and minerals on the nose and expanding to green apple, kiwi, lime, lemon and mineral on the palate. Very zesty and fresh, this also has a fat mid-palate and a density that does not generally come from this grape blend. The wine is remarkably unlike any other French white wine and is a great testament to Gauby’s outstanding terroir. A clean and well delineated wine that is also rich and full. Perhaps somewhat expensive, but also unique and delivering a sense of place.
$50 at Kitsilano Wine Cellars