Nicolas Joly Les Vieux Clos 2005
This wine is otherwordly. It is also completely unorthodox. The wine writer side of my brain spent hours confused about how to articulate what was going on in my mouth. The drinker in me kept wanting more of this most incredible juice.
His methods may be unconventional (Joly is one of the loudest proponents of biodynamic wines), but when they hit the sweet spot his wines can sing. You might not think that a funky, honeyed, musty, explosive, shy, and emotionally deep late harvest Savennieres would be the ideal pairing for Vancouver sushi, but it was.
I could go on about his methods, but others have done that before. What is important here is that this crackpot winemaker is making the kind of wine that you need to taste. He shows the benefits to striking your own path and being unconventional when you have the passion and talent to back it up. This is what makes wine exciting. I can think of no better praise for a wine or a winemaker.
$40 at Everything Wine