Champagne Day: Le Brun Servenay Brut Millesime 1998

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There is something in vintage Champagne that allows it to express a side of yeast that no other wine can. Aging on the lees for such an extended period of time somehow changes the yeast influence from the obvious baked bread qualities to something deeper and more mysterious. When you couple that with superb fruit quality, a great vintage Champagne combines complexly delineated terroir, taught structure and cascading richness. This combination is, at least for me, perhaps the most compelling in the wine world.

A Multi-Dimensional Champagne

Le Brun is a hard producer to get your hands on, but boy do they offer ridiculous quality for a very reasonable price. This is decidedly terroir driven Champagne. Located in the Avize Grand Cru vineyard, south of Epernay, the Le Brun vineyards produce predominantly chardonnay, which is perhaps the most transparent grape for the expression of terroir in Champagne. The Avize chard is blended in this wine with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from Oger.

Avize produces wines with a blanc de blanc level of clarity not dissimilar from Vertus, but with a different sort of minerality. And, the minerality is decidedly profound in this wine, driving it forward more than any other flavour. The quality of the fruit is significantly above other Champers I’ve tasted from 1998 and this helps the wine maintain its youthful clarity and excellent structure. The most exciting aspect of the wine is the multi-dimensionality of its flavours and aromas, which go well beyond what you would ever expect for a wine at this price point. It’s too bad it is sold out in Vancouver, but keep your eye open for future releases.
Disgorged just over 2 years ago.

$80 at Marquis


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