Vancouver Drinks: Hawksworth
I’m no food reviewer, but I do know wine. And wine Hawksworth does right. Having recruited hot shot Terry Threlfall back from London to Vancouver, I was slightly afraid that the wine list might be unapproachably expensive, concentrating on high end sales. I can happily report this is not the case, with both a superb selection by the bottle and the glass and at reasonable markups.
These are food friendly wines too, with a nod to B.C.’s best, but also proper respect for the great wines from around the world. I enjoyed a Chateau D’Eclans Whispering Angel Rose ($14 a glass) – one of the best Roses coming out of France and better described as a proper wine – and a wonderful glass of Arneis from Damilano ($11 a glass) that was expressive, fresh and balanced. I also noted great selections like Australian Semillion, and Languedoc reds.
Hawksworth also sports a wine preserving system that allows them to pour rarer and more expensive wines by the glass, such as a single vineyard Crochet Sancerre ($19). The bottle list itself is well varied, ranging from ~$40 bottles up to serious prices, but with a great intermediary selection that is better and more fairly priced than many so-called ‘mid-range’ restaurants in the city.
With L’Abattoir making a splash last year with Jake Skakun’s stellar list by the glass and bottle and now Terry Threlfall at Hawksworth bringing some serious wine geek credibility to the mix, I’m starting to think Vancouver’s wine scene is on the cusp of a revolution. Keep it up! Oh, and if you haven’t yet, go get a glass at either of these fine wine establishments.