Spotlight on Sangiovese: Querciabella Camartina 2005

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A highly respected producer from Chianti, Querciabella also makes this top-of-the-line Super Tuscan IGT from Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon – a wine I was quite excited to try. Clearly this wine gets lots of points, is made to be enjoyed by an international palate and is well made. But it just isn’t for me.

Where is my traditional Sangiovese? These oak-inflected wines with international grapes lack structure and varietal clarity. They are undoubtedly softer, easier to appreciate on their own and suit the modern palate. But where is the acid? The bite, the fire, the peppy joy of great Sangiovese? It’s not in wines like this. These wines are made for opulent steak dinners rather than simple veal bolognese pastas or sweetly subtle lamb chops.

That said, this is a very good IGT and you can taste the Sangiovese influence – bright cherry and leather – even if it lacks some transparency with its micro-oxygenated textural creaminess and oak spices. The oak kills the mouthwatering qualities of high acid Sangiovese, but, again, this is well made wine. It’s similar in weight and style to a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and will certainly gain amazing textural seamlessness with a couple years of bottle age. I just can’t abide. 14% abv.

Very Good+ (but my personal preference would rate this Good+)
$100 at Kits Wine Cellar

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