Spotlight on Nebbiolo: La Spinona Barbaresco Bricco Faset 2000
Tiny Barbaresco, the often neglected side-kick of Barolo (except, of course, for Gaja). The generally earlier ripening Nebbiolo here still produces some brilliant wines, mostly because the calcerous soils couple accessibility with the ethereal.
This is a small winery that is a hybrid of traditional and modern. While they use the traditional Slovenian oak they also ferment under temperature control in cement vats. The Bricco Faset vineyard is located in the Barbaresco DOCG and is one of the two top sources of Nebbiolo from La Spinona
This is a heavier, more compressed Nebbiolo based wine. While offering the depth of a good wine, it lacks finesse and the tannins remain fierce. I expected a bit more easy drinking wine at this stage in its development, but there are some rough edges to work through that make this relatively difficult to consume without food. It lacks in the fundamental aromatic complexity that makes great Nebbiolo so great.
However, this Barbaresco is still tasty wine, and its lack of subtle complexity makes it an ideal partner for richer, aromatic foods (such as osso buco braised in a lemon garlic sauce) because you do not lose the beauty of the wine’s aromas with the intense food pairings. Other wines, such as the Elio Grasso Barolo in the previous post, call more for a steak with less intense aromatics so as not to overwhelm the wine.
In conclusion, this is a good wine with food, but I would not recommend it compared to similar examples at a similar price point.
$50 at Liberty Wine Merchants