The Nusserhof Domain is a product uniquely suited to those seeking quirky, geeky, naturalist wines made without flaws. The wines of Heinrich Mayr (owner and winemaker) are for lovers of pretty, quaffable wines with character and food-friendly acid.
Naturalist Wine by the Highway
Nusserhof is located in northeast Italy near the town of Bolzano. While the estate has existed since pre-world war 2, when Bolzano was a quaint town, now the vines are surrounded by industrial and commercial development, with the Elda vineyard sitting adjacent to a major regional highway. Given these stark contrasts, it is remarkable that Nusserhof has survived, making geeky naturalist wines from indigenous varieties.
I first tasted Nusserhof at San Francisco’s Terroir, which was pouring the Tyreldego (an intentional typo in order to avoid DOC rules) by the glass. The Elda Vino Rosso was my second kick at the Nusserhof can and I was equally impressed.
The wine is made with the indigenous Schiava grape and grown on porphyry and sand. The vines are farmed organically and then slowly and gently pressed and fermented in large oak casks. While there is no official vintage designation, the lot number (9) indicates this wine is from the 2009 vintage.
The wine itself tastes a lot like Pinot Noir from a warmer vintage or climate, with interesting creamy strawberry, earth and fresh berry fruit. This is a silky, medium bodied wine that is immediately loveable and delicious but is also serious enough to warrant thoughtful consideration. Drinking perfectly right now.
For more information, see the excellent post (with great pictures to give context) in the Dressner Blog.
$35 at Arlequin in SF