Spotlight on Riesling: A. J. Adam “Hofberg” Kabinett 2010

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It is an uncommon event for a new producer to arise in Germany’s Mosel that quickly vaults into the upper echelon of reputation. A.J. Adam started making his own wines 10 years ago from vineyards near the town of Drohn. Adam is another 20-something maverick, but his fidelity to the grape and soils give exceptional minerality to his wines. His unique insight into ultra-traditional methods (also working full-time Heymann-Lowenstein) makes his wines particularly stunning both for their intense minerality and their extract. Trust Terry Thiese to bring in a wine with this magnitude of excitement.

Aromas of cream puff, lime custard, minerals, lactones and a hint of yeast (which is apparently common with young kabinett). This unique and fantastic bouquet is unlike nearly any other Riesling I’ve had – and this interest continues on the palate with its pear, macintosh apple, lime and a highly mineral laden finish. The fruit is pure, the balance is pin-point and the acid is fresh. The wine has quite a bit of power behind it, but it is texturally very soft and I’m amazed at how easy the 10.8g/l (the 2010 vintage is an extremely high-acid vintage) of acid is in this wine. A remarkable achievement from such a young winery and winemaker.

Excellent
~$35 at Vinopolis Portland

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