Andre et Mireille Tissot En Barberon Chardonnay 2007

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The Jura remains foreign territory for non wine geeks, though it is no longer the next big thing in the Sommelier world. Tissot is a standard bearer for the Jura and is likely its most famous producer. However, Tissot’s range is consistently superb and a true representation of what the Jura is all about. In B.C., Tissot represents almost the entirety of what is available from the Jura – a gap that I hope an adventurous importer will soon remedy.

Of Biodynamics and Tradition

Tissot, like most of the Jura’s best producers, is keen on many naturalist techniques (natural yeasts and low sulfur) and biodynamics, which they started employing in all their vineyards in the late 90’s.

Unlike Jura traditionalists, Tissot does not make his whites in an oxidative style, instead preferring a more modern, cleaner approach. This makes his wines much more accessible to the uninitiated than the traditional wines.

Better than Burgundy

Tissot’s Chardonnays are remarkable wines. The single vineyard wines are better than a great many white Burgundies and age superbly. A recent dinner at Vancouver’s L’Abattoir hit the nail on the head with a 2006 Gravieres Chardonnay, which paired with all of the 3 appetizers and 2 mains I consumed with my dinner companion.

This 2007 Barberon is drinking wonderfully but will no doubt continue to gain complexity. Taragon, nuts, flowers, and a unique oak spice distinct from the classic vanilla of new barriques. These Chards also possess tremendous acid structure – superior in balance to many Burgundies – that make them wonderful with a huge range of food.

~$55 at Kits Wine


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