Bodegas Robles Piedra Luenga Pedro Ximenez NV
This is one of the most remarkable wines I’ve had in a while. In the context of Sherry, this copper hued Pedro Ximenez is unlike anything else going on today. Located in Montilla Morilles, Bodegas Robles is the leading Sherry producer when it comes to organic viticulture. Attention to vineyards is something that Sherry has lost site of for many years. Even though many great vineyards exist, the focus has been all on style and the house. Along with consolidation has come a loss of the sense of place that is so important to other wines.
Robles shows the amazing potential of a different approach.
Organics and Sherry
Founded in 1927, Bodeas Robles is still operated by the same family. They have had a long commitment to organic viticulture and have gone as far as creating a line of organic certified sherries – their Piedra Luenga line, of which this PX is a member. These are the only certified organic wines in Andalusia.
This means that Robles is dedicated to minimal interference in the vineyard, preferring to promote biodiversity and cover crops instead of relying on chemical pesticides. They are meticulous in harvesting and winemaking because cleanliness is what allows them to reduce the use of sulphur in the wine.
The World’s Greatest Pedro Ximenez?
This PX has a purity I did not know was possible for this type of Sherry. Even with its massive amount of residual sugar (close to a pound/litre), the wine feels clean, pure and vibrant. This is not the case for most Pedro Ximenez sherries, which often suffer from an overly syrupy feel.
The translucent copper hue of the wine is unlike any other PX I’ve seen – I did not even realize this sort of clarity was possible with the grapes being subjected to the classic raisinating technique to increase sugars and viscosity.
This wine is a bowl of mediterranean fruit – dried apricots and figs dominate, but never fatigue. The wine makes a wonderful accompaniment for cheeses and all sorts of desserts, and it lasts for days in the fridge with no noticeable deterioration (I drank my half bottle over 5 days).
I very highly recommend this wine as a true stand out for Sherry and something that can cure the jaded palate.
Excellent+ and Highly Recommended Value
$18.71 from Garagiste (500ml)