Spotlight on White Burgundy: Arnaud Ente La Goutte d’Or 1er Cru Meursault 2007
No look at Meursault is complete without hitting one of the greats. Given, Comte Lafon, Roulot and Coche Dury are the entrenched masters, with unimpeachable reputations. However, the lesser known Arnaud Ente (a former employee at Coche-Dury) is beginning to build a formidable reputation that one day will likely rival the three reigning kings. La Goutte d’Or is one of his marquee bottlings.
The Amazing Ente
Ente, the up and comer, is yet very poorly known given the quality of his wines. Arnaud and his wife Marie-Odile aren’t often in the spotlight, but their operation is doing some amazing things. First off, the yields are very low, even for Burgundy, and Ente farms ‘biodynamically’ without seeking or caring about certification – rather tailoring his method to his needs and his experience. The wines only see 20% new oak and are aged 12 months in barrel and 6 in stainless steel, which seems to give these wines a precision and purity that you don’t always find in Meursault.
Drop of Gold
Ente owns .22 hectares of the Goute d’Or vineyard, which was planted in 1990 on the premier cru’s clay and limestone soils. Arnaud’s holdings in Goute d’Or are oriented west and east, thus catching the morning and evening light depending on the situation, and sit mid-slope in the vineyard, which ranges from 230 to 360m above sea level.
Initially reticent on the nose, this wine is ultimately quite subtle and elegant: minerals, a light dusting of nuttyness but nothing close to what you expect for Meursault, and lime. The nose impresses for its exceptional elegance. This is mouthwatering, superbly elegant wine. Ente’s Goutte d’Or is on another level to all the other white Burgundies I’ve tasted so far for this spotlight. Even as it exhibits a marked and extreme complexity, what makes this wine so impressive is its elegance and precision, despite the bright acids of the 2007 vintage. It is lifted and acid driven without being lean. And it is full-bodied and intensely flavoured without being fat. It is precisely where it should be. Every true Chardonnay lover owes themselves a bottle of this wine.
$150 at Marquis Wine Cellar