Spotlight on White Burgundy: Domaine Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet “En Virondot” 1er Cru 2009
As the brother to Puligny, Chassagne is perhaps slightly lesser known. The big question with Chassagne and Puligny is figuring out just what it is that distinguishes the two. For many sophisticated consumers, this is not easy.
Amazingly, Chassagne didn’t become Chardonnay dominant until the 1980’s. Now, of course, Chassagne is renowned for its whites over its reds. The key soils are composed of oolitic limestone and marl. According to the Oxford encyclopedia, the wines are known for their “steely power”. How this differentiates them from Puligny is beyond me.
The Morey name is all over Burgundy in many manifestations. Pierre Morey (winemaker for Leflaive) also has his own domaine focusing on Meursault. Marc Morey, on the other hand, is located in Chassagne and is now run by Marc’s son-in-law Bernard Mollard. It is now a respected domaine for consistently high quality Chassagne.
This wine is made with Marc Morey’s holdings in the en Virondot premier cru vineyard. The vineyard lies quite high on the slope above the village of Chassange, just about 300m above sea level, and is situated halfway between Puligny and Santenay.
This is an elegant, but mineral driven wine and is restrained for the vintage. It needs time to unwind but the complexity is outstanding. The wine is crisp and transparent and shows terroir rather than cellar. It is not quite perfectly jazzing right now, but it was nonetheless a great pairing for miso-glazed sablefish. There is serious stuffing for age and a level of sophistication you rarely get outside of the Cote d’Or and Chablis.
Could I blind this as Chassagne rather than Puligny? No. But let the journey continue.
Excellent to Excellent+
~$100 at Kits Wine