Spotlight on White Burgundy: Marc Morey “Les Vergers” Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet 2009
Another Marc Morey to continue the spotlight. Comparing the same producer’s wines from the same vintage but different vineyards can give considerable insight into terroir differences. Vergers, in contrast to en Virondot, is located both lower on the slope and more northerly (closer to Puligny). The vines face more directly east as opposed to Virondot’s southeast. This seems to have translated into a tighter, more linear wine.
Red or White?
Not unlike Puligny, Chassagne was once red-wine country – and not too long ago. Even today 50% of the production is red wine, which is of apparently quite high quality and much cheaper than the whites. However, I have never seen a red Chassagne on the west coast of North America, which shows how rare the reds are on this continent. Even the white wines of Chassagne, while undoubtedly much more renowned than the reds, are quite difficult to find. Compared to both Puligny and Meursault, Chassagne is a distant third in recognition by most consumers. This seems to have translated into slightly better prices for top sites, though these wines remain priced for special occasions.
This wine’s profile is quite distinct from any of the other Cote d’Or whites I’ve had: tight, restrained but very elegant and extremely long. This wine is all about delicacy and ethereal texture. The fruit is ripe but very restrained for the vintage even though there is a core of potency to the wine. This needs some air and perhaps a little bottle age to truly open, but it is a wonderful combination of intellectual and delicious, with an incredibly complex cocktail of aromatic esters.
Ultimately, Chassagne and Puligny whites share the unique and important combination of delicacy and power that singles out these wines from the rest of the world.
Excellent to Excellent+
$110 at Kits Wine