Spotlight on White Burgundy: Julien Collovray St. Veran 2010
Cheap, burgundy and quality are the great ephemeral triad of the wine world. I once heard Allan Meadows remark that “In Burgundy you don’t always get what you pay for, but you never get what you don’t pay for.” An astute observation and, for the most part, entirely true. Thus seeking out quality cheap Burgundy is a near Sisyphean task.
Pushing The Rock
St. Veran is a relatively new appellation in Burgundy that sits between Maconnais and Beaujolais. Created in 1971, St. Veran sits adjacent to the much more famous Pouilly-Fuisse and, while the soils are also limestone based, the red, acidic and sandy soil tends to produce very different wines from its neighbour. As such, while known for good wines, St. Veran is not typically known for great wines.
Julien Collovray is a highly respected winemaker in the Macon. This is his pet project. According to importer Garagiste, Collovray has access to top quality vines down to specific rows and selects and vinifies the best parcels in very small quantities for this, his personal label. And he has kept his prices in check. The result?
Big, rich Burgundy with nervousness and minerality, buoyed by the 2010 vintage’s combination of ripeness and freshness. This is eminently chuggable Chardonnay that glides. In my opinion it is also one of the finest white wine values in Burgundy.
Very Good+ to Excellent and Highly Recommended Value
$27 at Garagiste