Champagne Day: Marie-Courtin Resonance n/v Extra Brut Champagne
Marie-Courtin is one of the most exciting new producers in Champagne. It is also one of the more divisive, with many drinkers claiming the wine is too austere. While I have had some bottles that displayed austerity, my experience with the Resonance resoundingly discredits the austerity critics’ claims. This is one of the most accessible, pure, fruity and fresh Champagnes I’ve had.
On Taking Risks
Why does no dosage matter? It matters because dosage has been the heart of Champagne’s consistency for many many years. Moving away from it entirely represents a huge risk given the liminal climate. When combined with using fruit from a single year, no dosage shows a Champagne producer who is fully willing to expose her or himself to nature’s will. And this ain’t California.
Dominique Moreau, owner and winemaker, is also a fan of biodynamic farming (and, interestingly, debudding as a yield and rot control technique) and natural yeast fermentations. She, like the masterful Cedric Bouchard, makes her wines in the Cote des Bars – that once unfashionable region that is now host to the most exciting wines in all of Champagne.
A wine focused on fruit and freshness. Acid is there to support and structure the wine. It adds verve to the exciting and deep fruit. Very rarely does Champagne taste of fruit rather than yeast, dosage and bottle. I prefer it this way. It offers both terroir and joy – something that solera Champagnes seem to fail at. For me, wines like Marie-Courtin and Cedric Bouchard are also much more pleasurable than traditionally made Champagne. For all the talk of austerity, there is far more astonishment and life than dour intellectualism.
90% Pinot Noir. 10% Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. Fermented in stainless steel. 0 dosage. Serve in Burgundy glasses, not flutes.
Imported by Sedimentary Wines.
Excellent and Highly Recommended Value
~$70 at Kits Wine