Loimer Langenlois Kaferberg Gruner Veltliner 2006
Gruner Veltliner has come and gone as the hot darling of the cutting edge Sommelier. At the same time, Jancis Robinson wrote in 2007 that a tasting of Austrian Gruner Veltliner bested one of white Burgundy for consistency.
Personally I’ve found I lean towards the riper Gruners with 4+ years of age, but undoubtedly these are wines of class.
Loimer is a biodynamic producer by experience. This means he was not driven by ideology, but rather by having to actually deal with what happened in his vineyard. 2005 was such a problem vintage that Loimer decided to reconsider the way that he farmed.
Loimer is located in the Kamptal, a region quite distinct in climate from the more famous Wachau. Kamptal has many rivers and thus hot days, but very cool nights. This makes the wines quite powerful and fruity compared to Wachau. Soils are bedrock and loess.
For more information on Loimer, Alder Yarrow at Vinography wrote an in depth profile back in 2012.
This is sexy, beautiful wine. The Kaferberg is an Erste Lage (i.e. Grand Cru). It’s powerful and it’s bone dry. Though far less explosively aromatic than the 2008 Knoll Smaragd I enjoyed in Chicago, this wine is uncommon in its textural body coupled with softness and an exuberant palate of pineapple and honey. This is highly sophisticated and, with the 7 years of age it has now, an absolute bargain for the quality. Will pair with fish, spicy foods and seafood.
~$55 at Marquis Wine Cellars