Meo-Camuzet Bourgogne Blanc 2008

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It’s really hard to get cheap Burgundy of any merit. By cheap I mean anything under $40 CDN. It’s basically impossible to get wine from a top producer for less than $70. And then there is that gem of a wine that comes along maybe once a year to break all those barriers. This is just such a wine.

2008 is, in my opinion, a stunning vintage for white Burgundy both in Chablis and the Cote d’Or. The wines are lively and high in acid but also powerful and concentrated. This wine is a perfect example of the vintage. It is also quite rare as producer Meo-Camuzet is known for its great red wines, including a top Grand Cru Clos Vougeot. Plus how many whites have you seen from the Cote de Nuits? Time to listen up.

Burgundy’s Best Value White?

Put simply, this is village level wine for less than half the price. I’d compare the quality of this ‘08 to a basic Puligny-Montrachet. The wine shows lemon, mineral and light lees notes on the nose. This is expressive, with high acid but tons of raw material to back it up: freshness and flesh. There is fantastic mid-palate concentration here and good length. Made from fruit grown high up on the slopes above Clos Vougeot. The vineyards are owned and tended by the famed Meo-Camuzet. In my opinion, this is the best value white Burgundy available in the B.C. market right now.

Excellent and Highly Recommended Value
$37 at Marquis Wine Cellars

Comments

  1. David J Cooper
    August 16, 2013

    On your recommendation I went to the Marquis and bought the rest of these. We cracked one tonight and it was a pre-moxed mess. The second bottle was barely better. Have you been drinking too many Amphora aged whites?

  2. Shea
    August 17, 2013

    My bottle was not premoxed. You should return them for other bottles. Premox is obviously a flaw. I had no such issues. The wine rather was very fresh. You can look up other commentary on these wines as well. Hopefully my last couple bottles are ok. I am shocked at Premox in a 2008 however. It may be a different flaw.

  3. David J Cooper
    August 17, 2013

    I was very surprised and disappointed. Luckily I’m not an expert on premix, but these two were very oxodized. The first bottle was quite a bit darker yellow then the second.

    I did return them this morning, no problem there. It would have been nice to find a white Burgundy for $36 that was as exciting as you described.

  4. Shea
    August 17, 2013

    Well your description sounds like premox or, if not, then severe madirization perhaps due to heat exposure. As mentioned, premox is a flaw, so you cannot judge the wine’s quality entirely based on that happening in some bottles. Almost all white burgundy has this problem unfortunately, including wines that are 100’s of dollars. Writing off the wines entirely would be like drinking a corked wine and then complaining that all the bottles of the same wine are inherently bad, which is obviously not true unless every bottle was corked. Mine certainly was not premoxed – clean and precise with no signs of oxidation. I am quite familiar with the problem and have had many wines destroyed by this issue.

    The key to me would be to determine the percentage of these wines that are premoxed. There is a website that collects this information that can be found via google, but I haven’t fund much data on this Camuzet, who are one of the top 10-15 producers in Burgundy. As such, I would not have expected Camuzet to have as many issues as others. I recommend trying it one more time to see if the issue remains in the other bottles.

    That said, premox is one of the great risks of white Burgundy and its biggest problem. I never age the wines except for the very best producers (Leflaive, Lafon, Coche-Dury, Bonneau du Martray) or if it is Chablis, which almost never have premox issues. I hope that my remaining bottles of the Camuzet do not display these flaws, but it’s the name of the game unfortunately.

    It’s too bad you had this experience with this marvellous wine!

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