COS Frappato 2012

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Every year this Frappato is my choice wine for perfect drinkability. COS is inimitable Sicily, using indigenous grapes and very low interference techniques the focus on purity of fruit and textural ease. The results are nearly always brilliant wines.

The Road to Natural

While Nero d’Avola garners the most attention in the lowlands of Sicily, I far prefer Frappato for its aromatics and lightness. Even in the hands of top producers Nero d’Avola can feel heavy and over-plump. Not a problem with Frappato.

COS is natural wine developed through the process of open minds and experimentation. The progressive, experimental approach is often lost in discussions of natural wine and even with many producers. So many think natural wine is a static set of criteria for wine that accord with a particular philosophy. Not so. Natural wine, when pursued authentically, is really just a certain point along a long path of trial and error.

COS is case in point. Begun in 1980 and slowly expanding since then, COS was the coming together of three friends (Giambattista Cilia, Cirino Strano and Giusto Occhipinti) who inherited vines from their families and decided to play. Since 1980 the three friends went through a series of attempts to express the ‘terroir’ of their plots that even went through experimentation with barriques.

These days COS farms biodynamically, ferments mostly in concrete tank and, for its top end Pithos line, amphorae (though some wood is still used for certain wines). These are wines focused on varietal expression and reserved extraction.

The Wine

This Frappato, from vines of about 15 years age grown in the region of Vittoria, is 100% fermented in concrete. This is strawberry fresh wine with a very soft texture, but bright, pleasant acidity. It is complete in its simplicity and very well balanced. A perfect example of how lightness and expression more often than not defeats power for the coveted “one more glass” award.

$35 at BCLDB


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