Movia Pinot Gris 2008
Movia, the wild, slightly mad, but entirely brilliant natural winemaker from Slovenia is one of my top ‘naturalists’. Why? His wines are made with impeccable diligence, are eminently drinkable wines that put the “natural” after the “this has to taste good” philosophy, while at the same time embodying a wine ‘raiser’ who does not at all put hedonism before principles.
This Pinot Gris is from Movia’s top varietal line and represents outstanding value for the quality and uniqueness you get in these bottles. Made from 35 year old vines and hand picked in a late harvest, this wine is fermented with natural yeasts in tank and then goes through secondary malo-lactic on the lees in barriques. Finally, the wine is aged 18 months in French oak. There is no sulphur added prior to bottling, which means greater aromatics and better texture.
The Varietal Character of Pinot Gris
This is neither Italian “Pinot Grigio” (high acid, mostly insipid and thin, tart) nor Aslatian “Pinot Gris” (hedonistic pear and spice compote). Rather, it is richly textured but fresh and noticeably acidic while at the same time mineral and spice driven much more than fruit driven. You will note that this accords with Movia’s belief in the true varietal character of Pinot Gris: “Pinot Gris is an extremely complex wine with a strong yet balanced aroma. Young Pinot Gris is slightly fruity without any particular fruit note standing out; correctly processed wines exhibit a bitterish aftertaste when young. Pinot Gris ages well, mature wines develop a spicy flavor hinting at green walnuts.” The aging in barrel and on the lees adds richness that is not superficial but is rather thoughtful and pleasurable. This is also versatile with food and will work well with mediterranean foods as much as a roast chicken or pork. It’s a shame that more Pinot Gris doesn’t reflect its ‘true’ varietal character, because this is an important food wine that plays a role at the table few, if any, other wines can. That said, there is no other Pinot Gris quite like this.
Very Good+ (likely Excellent with more bottle age)
$36 at Kits Wine Cellar