Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Spatlese 2002

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If there is an ideal form of Mosel Riesling, its harmony would derive from its continuity and its persistence. Continuity because its acid and sugar balance become an indistinguishable whole from sip to finish. Persistence because this quality never escapes the wine or leaves it stalled – the finish a denouement drawn through from the aromas.

Being, Nothingness and Joy

Wine possesses a quality of beauty sprung directly from life: impermanence. Like the Buddhist mandala, no matter how much effort and careful preparation goes into wine, its final form must always be wiped away. For me Riesling, more than any other grape, embodies this deep aesthetic truth. It grips at life longer than most any other wine in the world, some lasting a century. But its experience is so effortless, to taste it is to experience the essence of its disappearance. It’s simply never as present as other wines; its foot is always in the doorway to its passing.

The greatest Rieslings, like this Egon Muller, teach us that harmony exists in the transition from being to passing. The famous ‘tension’ wine writers often speak of when talking Riesling is not so much about acid as it is between the wine’s presence and its absence. Riesling’s tension is its almost-thereness. Its brilliance is in making you yelp in excitement at such an ethereal, temporary pleasure.

Consumed with ginger-garlic Vietnamese crab, love, and joyful memories.

~$150 at Liberty Wine


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