Champagne Day: Le Brun Servenay Vieille Vignes Brut 2003
Le Brun Servenay is one of my favourite grower producers in Champagne. Their vintage Champagnes in particular offer incredible value for the money and are always full of depth and complexity.
Located in Avize, Le Brun Servenay produces Grand Cru champagnes – both blanc de blancs and blends. This wine is a blending the three traditional grapes, though they focus on Chardonnay (which is 80% of the plantings and 80% of the blend in this wine). The 5.5g/l dosage is well done and the wine is very balanced. I would classify this Champange on the ‘wine’ side of the scale in Champagne and it could do very well without bubbles.
A Wine for Japanese Elegance
This is ideal Champagne for top quality nigiri sushi (which is the pairing I enjoyed). Its umami character is palpable, but it retains freshness and cut, even for 2003. The age has given the wine soy notes, which well accompany its mineral qualities and dryness. The mouthfeel is full and the body is in the realm of what WSETers call medium+. This is also not tremendously on the brioche side of things, which is beneficial with sushi, which tends to prefer umami notes to sweet baking and caramel notes. I will say that this is not at the same level of the same producer’s 1998 or 2002, but it is nonetheless an excellent Champagne and continues to be one of the best Champagne deals year in year out.
Very Good+ to Excellent
$80 at Marquis Wine Cellars