Spotlight on Red Burgundy: Michel Gros Morey Saint Denis “En La Rue de Vergy” 2007
The Gros family is one of the greats in Burgundy, with four domaines and impressive vineyard holdings concentrated mostly in Vosne Romanee, but with various spatterings elsewhere. Michel Gros in particular has fairly broad holdings in Nuits St. Georges, Chambolle and Morey.
Though not a premier cru, En La Rue de Vergy sits on the slope above the famous monopole vineyard Clos de Tart. A request has been made for elevation of this vineyard to 1er cru. The vineyard containes Comblanchien limestone, clay and stone.
Morey is often cited as the ‘lesser’ village as compared to Gevrey and Chambolle, and prices reflect that reputation. However, most of the best critics agree that Morey wines are superb and some even contend are generally more even in quality than those of its two neighbours. This wine is certainly an example of that.
The Michel Gros vines were planted in 1992, though he bought his parcel three years later. Of particular interest with Gros is that he has abandoned chaptalization completely, instead preferring to use a must concentrator if necessary.
Gros routinely de-stems and ages his village wines in 30-40% new oak, with the rest old. This 2007 has started well into its development and is now in early adulthood, with some browning towards the rim and a noticeable focus on savory rather than fruity flavours. The tart red berry fruit has a wonderful sweet and sour quality interlaced with roots and minerally earth. The wine is quite dry, with fine but distinct tannins.
A delicious wine for lovers of savoury Pinot and a superb example of the quality to be had from Morey at very reasonable pricing compared to the rest of the Cote de Nuits. Consider Morey the drier, more elegant cousin in value to Nuits St. George’s power and opulence.
Very Good+ to Excellent
$72 at BCLDB