Spotlight on Red Burgundy: Perrot-Minot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Perrieres Premier Cru 2006
About one year after I started this journey into red Burgundy I have come to the end. Attempting a series that focuses on all red Burgundy is over-ambitious and all I could have hoped to learn from this series is a broad overview of the important villages in the Cote de Beaune. I feel as though that goal has been achieved but that others have been awakened, including attempts to understand each village in depth and, ultimately, particular vineyards. But that is for another day.
Today, in the last post in my Spotlight on Red Burgundy I look at another outstanding premier cru from Gevrey-Chambertin.
Perrot-Minot is a fairly controversial producer. Some find these wines to be overly extracted and oak driven. Lyle Fass of Rockss and Fruit once called them “monstrosities”. I can’t agree with that characterization.
The style is definitely influenced by low yields and darker flavours. When I first tasted these wines a couple years ago I was underwhelmed. However, I greatly enjoyed this wine in its context, paired with a berkshire pork rack and local morel mushroom sauce.
The approach is to de-stem 50-100% depending on vintage, cold macerate and ferment with natural yeast. The domaine uses 30% new oak for its premier crus, with elevage lasting 12-14 months.
Perrot-Minot purchases the grapes for this premier cru Les Perrieres. The vineyard sits just below Les Mazis grand cru and is part of a group of vineyards known for finesse, charm and medium body.
The nose was impressive with minerals, balsamic, dried strawberry and dill weed. The tannins were perfectly developed, charming and supple. The wine offered an extended finish and was quite finessed though lushly fruited. I was so impressed with this wine I almost awarded it an Excellent+ but for the fact I had just recently had the Clos St. Jacques from Bruno Clair, which is a clear step up. This demonstrates that context is fundamental to our appreciation of wine.
Excellent to Excellent+
~$120 at Kits Wine
My conclusions about Burgundy? Well, that I can’t draw any without much more experience. But keeping that caveat in mind, my top villages are Vosne and Gevrey, the wines of which truly know no parallel in terms of utter completeness. For value, I go to Nuits-St-Georges and for delicate, perfumed Pinot Volnay is my top pick. What I can also say definitively is that it is futile to compare Pinot Noir from the rest of the world to Burgundy. It is an experience unto its own and the wines have unparalleled qualities such as depth of fruit and charm combined with refined structure and age-worthiness that most other Pinots cannot approach. I also found that if you are willing to do your research as well as put down $100+ on a bottle, then you will likely avoid the ‘bad Burgundy’ we all try to avoid. There seems to be quite a bit of consistency with the very best producers. But, as Allen Meadows once said, in Burgundy while you don’t always get what you pay for, you never get what you don’t pay for.
Coming up: without giving it away, I am quite excited for the next spotlight as it will be the first of its kind in BC, looking at a much-maligned grape and region with fresh eyes.