Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 2007

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photoAs expensive as Poggio di Sotto’s wines are, they also sit a clear echelon above most from Montalcino. This 2007 Rosso is, in form and complexity, more like a Brunello than a Rosso.

Poggio di Sotto is considered ‘traditional’ in its approach, meaning indigenous yeasts, two years Slavonian Oak Botti (that’s a Brunello length of time), and no filtering. The wines from Poggio di Sotto are particularly ethereal and fragrant because of the vineyard’s cooler microclimate and marl soils. The vines are 20 years old. For more information on the winery, check out my review of the 2008 Rosso, which I thought was actually a notch above the 2007 in quality.

Winemaker Piero Palmucci believes that many Brunellos have betrayed Sangiovese’s true character and colour. The wines should never be dark, but garnet. This ‘07 Rosso is consistent with Palmucci’s philosophical preference for garnet clarity. The traditionalist stylings of Poggio di Sotto also ensure this Rosso’s purity and lifted aromatics even as it is quite powerful. Chalky minerality completes the experience. It is a serious wine, made more for steak than pizza. It is also further proof that Sangiovese remains immensely underrated, meaning even top producers are reasonably priced. The quality of experience on offer with this Rosso is not dissimilar to a very good village lieu dit or lesser premier cru from a top Burgundy producer, but the wine costs about 30% less.

Excellent
$72 at Marquis Wine Cellars (about the same price as in the US)

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