Domaine Clos des Rocs “Clos des Rocs Monopole” Pouilly-Loche 2012
I discovered this wine at the fantastic Lyon restaurant Palégrié, where sommelier Chrystel Monjuré poured this with a strawberry and goat milk ice cream dessert. Yes you heard that right, dry white Macon Chardonnay with dessert. It worked beautifully due to the creamy but not overly sweet goat ice cream and the acidity of the strawberries.
Beyond this marvellous pairing, this is serious wine of which importers should take note. Made in Pouilly-Loché by vigneron Olivier Giroux, which is a tiny 32ha appellation adjacent to the more famous and more expensive Pouilly-Fuisse, this wine is made from 70 year old vines in a 3ha vineyard with iron rich clay and limestone pebbles. This estate is a seventh generation affair, and has a strong local reputation. However, I had never heard of them prior to Lyon. The grapes are biodynamically farmed, harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts. This particular cuvée is aged 60% in barrel and 40% in steel.
Aromatic, Mineral Chardonnay
This wine is particularly unique and showcases the terroir possible in Puilly-Loché. It is highly aromatic with equal parts dry minerals and zesty citrus flowers. The mid-weight palate is complete and leads to a fascinating, extended finish. It is one of the most interesting Chardonnays I have tasted at its price point and deserving of some serious attention this side of the Atlantic.
About $35-$45 in the US (imported by Rosenthal)