Domaine Clos des Rocs “Clos des Rocs Monopole” Pouilly-Loche 2012

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I discovered this wine at the fantastic Lyon restaurant Palégrié, where sommelier Chrystel Monjuré poured this with a strawberry and goat milk ice cream dessert. Yes you heard that right, dry white Macon Chardonnay with dessert. It worked beautifully due to the creamy but not overly sweet goat ice cream and the acidity of the strawberries.

Beyond this marvellous pairing, this is serious wine of which importers should take note. Made in Pouilly-Loché by vigneron Olivier Giroux, which is a tiny 32ha appellation adjacent to the more famous and more expensive Pouilly-Fuisse, this wine is made from 70 year old vines in a 3ha vineyard with iron rich clay and limestone pebbles. This estate is a seventh generation affair, and has a strong local reputation. However, I had never heard of them prior to Lyon. The grapes are biodynamically farmed, harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts. This particular cuvée is aged 60% in barrel and 40% in steel.

Aromatic, Mineral Chardonnay

This wine is particularly unique and showcases the terroir possible in Puilly-Loché. It is highly aromatic with equal parts dry minerals and zesty citrus flowers. The mid-weight palate is complete and leads to a fascinating, extended finish. It is one of the most interesting Chardonnays I have tasted at its price point and deserving of some serious attention this side of the Atlantic.

Excellent
About $35-$45 in the US (imported by Rosenthal)

Comments

  1. john meyer
    September 28, 2015

    Disappointing. An hour after opening, I expected at least a touch of the richness and concentration I’ve had from the neighbors of Pouilly-Fuisse, like, say, a Vinzelles from the Bret Bros. But this wine is thin, slightly acidic, and lacking in charm -though partially eleve in oak. I’ll stick with the Macons from Vire-Clesse.

  2. Shea
    September 28, 2015

    Can’t agree at all with that comment at least based on the bottle I had. Definitely not a modernist style like the Bret Bros, but certainly not thin. It’s a more mineral and citrus driven wine than the often overly-weighty bottles from Fuisse (though of course there are great wines from there too).

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