Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Vosne Romanee 2012
Rich blood. Wines like this are a rare privilege for the average wine geek. Sad as it is for village level Burgundy to be priced for special occasions, the quality of the village level wines of the best producers has never been higher. There is a level of depth and complexity for such village wines that rival the top wines of producers from regions such as the Sonoma Coast or the Yarra Valley. In this context, village level Burgundy from a top producer is fairly priced.
Whole Bunch to the Max
Confuron-Cotetidot has been on a real quality march for some time, and the wines have improved considerably since Yves and Jean-Pierre Confuron took over from their father Jacky. In 2012 La Revue du Vin France elevated the domaine to the coveted 3 stars, putting them alongside producers such as Leroy, Mugnier, Rousseau and Roumier.
The focus here is on using whole bunch fermentation (you won’t find a destemmer anywhere at this domaine) and I’d say this domaine is an ideal example of what can be achieved with this style of winemaking. They are also blessed with some very old vines (60-80 years) and excellent plots (the 1er cru Suchots is a particularly brilliant wine). Farming is as you would expect bereft of chemicals, focusing on plowing.
The style is of wines that are highly expressive and aromatic in youth with considerable fruit (likely due mostly to late harvesting). Thus, the domaine’s wines are very attractive in youth. Age brings out greater complexities and while I have not had the opportunity to taste very old vintages, the industry word is generally extremely positive about the wines’ longevity.
A Vosne to Splurge For
This village level Vosne will not disappoint lovers of pinot noir, Burgundy, or Vosne. It hits all the notes you want from each of those sub-categories. Its fruit is potent and complex, carrying its oak well. There is so much going on right now that I could easily drink several bottles in the next year and be very happy. But there is also a not quite yet born perfect symbiosis between the oak, tannin and fruit that is waiting to come out in 4-5 years. Drink, hold, love – this is a no-brainer special occasion wine.
Excellent to Excellent+
$110 + tax at Kits Wine