Ava Gene’s has one of the best wine lists in Portland. This is the only explanation for me finding the extremely rare Nusserhof white “B” on the wine list (but seriously, to see just how great it is). Imported by Dressner, Nusserhof is one of those improbable places – an estate nestled amongst the sprawl and development of the city of Bolzano. Decidedly unromantic and yet perfectly suited for the natural wine movement: a last bastion making brilliant, esoteric wines amongst the ticky tacky.
It’s all about B
Why “B”? Blatterle, the roll-of-the-tongue indigenous Tyrol grape that no one else seems to make wine out of. Nusserhof does, however. Despite its history as a light quaffing wine, the Mayr family that runs the estate makes something more serious. But not too serious. Just serious enough to offer wonderful orchard fruit and a juicy but soft and pleasurable palate. This is versatile, delicious wine. A very good category. Some saltiness in the finish completes the package.
Why did I pick this wine off the list. I happened to have tasted (and reviewed) the Schiava from Nusserhof back in 2012 and tasted and loved the Tyreldego (intentional spelling) at Terroir SF a year earlier. I loved both wines. The white fell right into that trend.
So the lesson? Drink Nusserhof. Go to Ava Genes. Love weird indigenous Italian grapes. Don’t neglect Italy’s Germanic north-east.
$55 on the wine list, Ava Gene’s, Portland