Nikolaihof Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd 2009

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Nikolaihof is a wine geek’s paradise. An Austrian multi-vineyard winery replete with geeky varieties, released new and aged (in both oak and bottles), with a myriad of fermentation choices.

The greatness comes from beyond the geekiness. The wines are stunning, almost entirely across the board. They are more open and expressive than you might think. Most 2009 dry Rieslings would not be as expressive and delicious as this one, especially at the Smaragd (or reserve) level. But here it is, ready to be consumed with your favourite asian food or, as I did, with Quiche.

An Ancient Winery

Root systems. That’s what gets vines through the hard years, whether too cool and wet or too hot. Nikolahoif accomplishes this by both using old vines and incorporating biodyanamic techniques (it was the first in Europe to do so). This is the classic biodiverse farm-style winery with various agricultural products grown along with the wine grapes. The winery is ancient too – planted some say as early as 63bc by the Romans and following the history of the region since, ending up the hands of monks and eventually the Saahs family (in 1894) that now runs it.

Historical, Delicious, geeky and biodynamic. Ok, I’ll bite. Sold at the evil BCLDB and if it wasn’t brought in by stellar small agent Sedimentary I might even say take a pass. But help them out – it’s not as if this sort of thing flies off the government shelves.

Excellent
$58.99 + 15% tax at BCLDB

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