Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2010

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So forget about Gran Selezione for a moment. The single vineyard Vigna del Sorbo from Fontodi hasn’t changed with that classification but it has consistently been one of the greatest versions of Sangiovese in Italy. The 2010 takes the wine to an epic, artful level that is rarely encountered.

Located near the town of Panzano, Fontodi’s farms its estate vineyards organically. Considerable top-quality new (though untoasted) oak, yadda yadda. Unless you were in the vineyard making decisions, it’s not particularly effective to state facts as a means of explaining why this wine is so impressive. What matters is that Fontodi’s Giovanni Manetti is meticulous and incredibly skilled – tools that allowed him to turn the opportunity offered by 2010 into greatness.

This is upper echelon Sangiovese because it is concentrated, elegant, structured, multi-layered, very long, poised and perfectly gradated. When you drink a lot of wine you start to see the rapidly diminishing value in wines north of $40. As you become familiar with grape and region profiles, you become harder to impress. Then there comes along an example from the amalgamation of a great estate and a great vintage that reignites the passion. After years of exploration, and accepting my limited resources, when I find wines like this I buy them in much larger quantities than I used to when I spent more time teaching my palate about the world’s variety. The 2010 Vigna del Sorbo is such a wine. At the price, it has almost no parallel and is the sort of currently available wine that I encounter only once or twice a year.

$80 at Kits Wine


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