Ryme Vermentino Las Brias Vineyard “His” 2013
There has been a movement to valorizing the young vintners that comprise the latest generation of the “new California”. Sometimes the praise can go too far and in my view it is important to acknowledge the limitations of those who are still learning.
For me, Ryme has an impeccable pedigree, with Ryan Glabb having trained with Pax over at Wind Gap. However, I find the wines uneven. Some are good but many are just fine and a bit too expensive for the quality. Ryme makes two Vermentinos (a “hers” and a “his”) in two styles from grapes grown in Carneros. The “hers” in a traditional, fresh style, and the “his” in a skin-macerated more orange wine style. The former did not excite me. The latter, “his”, bottling was one of the more enjoyable California orange wines I have come across and I would definitely recommend it, especially to those seeking to experience quality bottlings of Italian varieties from California.
The wine is not really oxidative and there is plenty of fruit. Glabb manages to extract wonderful texture for this bottling and it has a nice balance of fruitiness (mostly orchard peaches and a touch of orange), rich texture and tannic structure that gives it great versatility with food. It worked wonderfully with parchment paper roasted arctic char (seasoned with orange zest and olive oil), French dijon mustard potato salad and green beans.
$32 USD from winery mailing list.