Mortet is a young domaine that in my view is destined to become one of Burgundy’s greats. Struck by tragic circumstances in 2006 when Denis committed suicide, Denis’ young, then twenty-six years’ old, son Arnaud was thrust into the driver’s seat before his time in extremely difficult circumstances. But he has shown his precocious talent and finessed the Domaine’s style to retain the powerful fruit and impeccable farming of his father while adding greater elegance and minerality to the wines.
A New Cult Burgundy
While known for its various bottlings of Gevrey Chambertin, including a superb Chambertin and an underappreciated 1er cru Lavaux St-Jacques, this producer’s affordable Marsannay bucks everything you know and expect from this lesser village.
Denis Mortet’s approach in the vineyard was to significantly reduce yields with meticulous bud trimming and canopy management that resulted in very ripe grapes with high levels of extract. The wines had sometimes been disliked as overly rich. However, Arnaud has retained the farming approach while dialing back the extraction in the cellar and reducing the use of new oak, limiting it to only the very top cuvees. The result is power with elegance and minerality. Its an impressive feat.
Rather than simply being a good, fruity and forward wine like you would expect from other bottlings, this Marsannay Longeroies is a serious bottle of Cote de Nuits. While the wine is structurally composed of ripe, firm tannic structure, juicy acidity, and length, the fruit is pure, powerful and complex. Arnaud Mortet considers Longeroies to be the best climat in Marsannay (there are no grand or premier cru vineyards in Marsannay), and his bottling helps make that point.
Very hard to find, but worth the effort. I’d like to see these in B.C.
Excellent+ and Highly Recommended Value
~$70 USD at Arlequin Wine, SF