Old and Good: Barolo, Burgundy and … Champagne
Sometimes there are those nights where everything is on point.
Accompanied by wonderfully executed food at Cinara, each of the following was in peak form:
Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet 2014
Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion 2004
Domaine Ramonet Chevalier-Montrachet 2008
Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo 1999
Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato Barolo 2001
Bernard Moreau is certainly a name to watch, making white Burgundy of lightness and precision. This is not a buttery-rich style, but for fans of lean, mineral driven Chard.
The Diebolt-Vallois was just starting into its mature development, with another 5 or so years until peak. It was absolutely delicious and did not last long.
The Ramonet took time to fully come into its own. What first showed as perhaps slightly oxidative resolved entirely with air into a perfectly formed, mature and top level wine with the fruit weight only found in grand cru.
Giacomo Conterno’s 1999 showed some reduction, big fruit, florality, and a big, hefty palate. It was a great wine but perhaps slightly off its peak form.
A 2001 Mascarello Monprivato proved the pedigree of this wine and producer – it was in perfect form, still showing some youth and incredibly expressive with a bevy of rose petals, some forest, walnut skins and beautifully pure red fruit on an elegant palate showing the light touch of the producer. For me, this was a perfect Barolo. For others, it could be given another 4-5 years to hit peak.
A dinner of show rather than tell. This is why we buy and age our own wines for consumption 10 years down the line. Little other experience compares.