Tenuta di Trinoro Campo di Magnacosta 2015
Andrea Franchetti’s Tenuta di Trinoro project makes some of the best wine in Italy. Located in an obscure part of Tuscany and focused on Bordeaux varieties, particularly Cabernet Franc, the estate belies any notion that only the so-called “indigenous” grapes of Italy matter.
Trinoro’s single vineyard Cabernet Francs (Campo di Magnacosta, Campo di Tenaglia, and Campo di Camagi) are among my favourite wines – they possess an incredible harmony but also ideal idiosyncratic qualities that repeat year to year. They are accessible and age-worthy. They are complex, extended masterpieces. Each grows in different soils – the Magnacosta on gravel and silt, the Tenaglia on limestone, and the Camagi on a quartz/limestone mixture.
Franchetti is one of Italy’s best wine-makers and I think his success with the “international” varieties derives much from his respect for healthy farming practices and the indiginous grapes of the country. His second project, Passopisciaro, for example makes some of the best wine in Etna, and brought the region to the international stage. The winery makes both a number of single vineyard “contrada” bottlings focusing on the indigenous local varieties, but also a ‘winemaker’ wine he calls Franchetti which marries Petit Verdot with an indigenous grape from Lazio that he helped preserve called d’Affile.
The respect for quality and the nuances of the grape, soil, and region, rather than a formulaic way of approaching wine make Franchetti an inspiration in both wine and life. Formulas and expectations have entrenched themselves in what seems to be an ever increasing quantity of our thinking and acting – most of us remain wholly unconnected to our souls, and walled off from true inspiration. The only path to inspiration is to listen but refuse to obey, to be mindful but refuse to cooperate, to challenge but deny the ‘truth’ of what ego tells us. Franchetti’s wines communicate this ethos to me and I love them as a result.
$150 + tax at BCLDB and private stores