Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2014
Few wines achieve simultaneous complexity and elegance. Wines like this are the most profound in the world – power alone is insufficient without the drinkability of elegance and the aromatic and flavour nuances a truly complex wine provides.
As much as I appreciate Sangiovese, it almost never reaches perfection in complexity and elegance. Sometimes the fruit is a bit too baked, othertimes the tannins to taught or the acidity a bit too sharp. On the other hand, some modern styles are too silky from ripeness and cellar treatment that they lose nuance for the gain in texture.
There are perhaps only 2-3 Sangioveses that I would personally put in the very upper tier of wines I have tried. One is Soldera – an ephemeral and sui generis masterpiece nearly impossible to find or afford. This 2014 vintage of Le Pergole Torte is another. Ignore the weakness of the vintage for many other producers, in Radda, for Montevertine, the conditions were ideal for making near-perfect Sangiovese. The mid-weight lift opens to tremendous beauty, elegance, and deep, wonderful aromatic playfulness. This is profoundly pretty, but not at all angular or thin. It is distinctly Sangiovese but so much more balanced and harmonious than even truly excellent examples from other producers. The pretty fruit is sinewed with minerality, and floral notes that waft in and out of each nosing. As a bonus, this is ready to drink right now (uncommon for Pergole Torte).
The wine is made from the oldest vines on the estate, which has been around since 1967. In 2014, the harvest was in mid-October – very late. The cool season and summer rains make this more an ‘old-style’ vintage as owner and vintner Martino Manetti put it. In fact, he says this is one of his favourite vintages in the last two decades for this reason.
The wine is so nuanced it needs a very simple pairing, or simply have it on its own. This is a must-experience wine and among the greatest wines of Italy.
$165+tax at BCLDB