The top four bottles at the dinner, most likely. Our table contributed the beautiful 1993 Latricieres-Chambertin, proving once again not to ignore the larger domaines for certain bottlings. The 1990 DRC Richebourg was as pure and perfect as an untouched mountain stream - shockingly fruity and young - with a powerful core that never feels anything more than supple. Roty is one of the great producers (with the oldest vines) in Gevrey - it is too bad he is so hard to find.

Oct
27

La Paulée Dinner 2019 – Vancouver International Wine Festival

The Vancouver International Wine Festival and Hawksworth Restaurant hosted the innaugural La Paulée dinner last week. The wine festival has, historically, been a place where new and newish consumers come to

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May
24

Reflections on Mid-2000’s Burgundy

The inimitable Pinot Noirs of Burgundy require regular revisiting. The typical comments about Burgundy’s unevenness misconstrue why the region is always among the best in the world for terroir-driven wine.

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Jun
1

Priorat: Globalization, Terroir, and The New Wines of Spain

A contradiction lies deep in the heart of wine’s globalization. The standard narrative is that globalization leads to homogenization of wine style and increasing monopolization of distribution. The counter-narrative has

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Apr
27

Ciabot Berton: Barolo from a La Morra Traditionalist

Ciabot Berton are new entrants into British Columbia’s wine market. A recent tasting provided an opportunity to explore a range of blended and single vineyard Barolos from various recent vintages.

Soils near Jerez

Oct
22

On Reductive Ageing, Or A Few Great Bottles of Champagne and Sherry

Champagne and Fino Sherry share two great commonalities. First, they both grow in calcareous clay and limestone soils. Second, they are (generally) both made with uncommon highly reductive wine-making techniques.

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Sep
28

Vosne Romanée and Nuits St. Georges: Six Wines from Domaine Fabrice Vigot and Domaine Bertrand Marchard de Gramont

I recently attended a Burgundy seminar courtesy of importer That’s Life which looked at three wines from Nuits St. Georges and three wines from Vosne Romanée from two smaller but

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Jul
10

Searching for Okanagan Terroir with Sparkle: Bella Wines

Over the last decade, from the time I began writing about wine seriously, I have been searching for the signal that the Okanagan has (1) interesting terroir, (2) the technical

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Jun
16

A Few Wines from the 2016 Vancouver Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Tasting

This is a solid tasting in Vancouver. Though many ‘3 glass’ winners are pretty unexciting, there are guaranteed gems. My selections from this year’s Vancouver tasting are below. Most are

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Jun
12

Varner, Old and New: Re-Inventing the Imagination

What is the meaning of legacy? There is a rare single moment in the lives of a very few where they break from a life’s work. Our linear perception of

Monte Bello's oldest vines from 1940

May
8

A California Grand Cru: Visiting Ridge’s Monte Bello Vineyard

Abe Schoener is right. The greatest legacy of changing sentiments in the “new” California is increased focus on California’s best vineyards – its premier and grand crus. One of the