Archive for the ‘Barbera’ Category

La Spinetta Ca’ Di Pian Barbera D’Asti 2006

IMG_3823Piedmont lovers tend to be fanatical about that region’s most renowned grape, nebbiolo – and for good reason. Nebbiolo produces some of the world’s greatest “monster” wines that still retain freshness and beauty after 20 years. However, for me, the great underbelly of Piedmont is not nebbiolo, but barbera. Barbera can make simple quaffable wine, certainly. And, most people’s experience with it is likely of this variety. However, barbera can also make profoundly complex and yet fruity wines that have an ability to pair with food that, in my opinion, far surpasses nebbiolo.

Don’t let my rant suggest that barbera can make wine as timeless and profound as nebbiolo. However, it can make wine that is truly outstanding and often overlooked. Perhaps this is because barbera is Piedmont’s most widely planted grape, and tends to sit as simple dinner wine on every table in the region. Further, barbera rarely receives the level of treatment that nebbiolo gets, and so the meticulous time and effort that can make barbera great often doesn’t take place. Luckily there are a few producers who take barbera seriously, La Spinetta being one of them, and it is these producers that show the stupendous quality of wine that the simple barbera grape can produce.

Another important point to consider is the difference between the two main regions for barbera, Asti and Alba. Asti tends to have younger vines than Alba and therefore the wines produced here are often simpler and juicier. If you want the truth depth of barbera, you have to go to Alba. That said, this is a fantastic barbera d’asti with a nose of wood spice, orange peel, blackberry and a hint of licorice. The palate is fruity and bright with excellent tannin structure along with cherry, blackberry, and oak spice. Underlying this are soft earthy tones that round this out as a sumptuous dinner wine that provides a level of quality far beyond your basic barbera. Grab yourself a bottle and see what barbera can do.

Very Good+
$40 at BCLDB

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Prunotto ‘Castamiole’ Barbera d’Asti 2000

I decided recently to skip over a bunch of my older tasting notes and start writing about wines I was actually drinking around the time of posting. I find it much more enjoyable to write up a wine in proximity to its consumption. However, today marks an opportunity to get through at least a couple older tasting notes (I have notes for around 40 wines sitting around!).

For this wine, however, I don’t really need a note – I remember it clearly. Prunotto has been a favourite of mine since I had a large sampling of their range at the Vancouver International Wine Festival. I had heard good things about their Barbera, but didn’t chance upon it until the new massive Everything Wine warehouse opened up in North vancouver. I am glad I got my hands on this.

A nose of roasted meat, smoky bbq, and very rich raspberry. The palate was smoky still, but in a more subtle way, with tar, cigar, and a core of luscious raspberry again. But this is a style of raspberry fruit that you could only get from Italy – raw and forward and built to pair with food. With an elegant mouthfeel, a proper structure and excellent balance, this, to my mind, is as close to perfect as Barbera gets. Prunotto does it again.

Excellent+
$60 at Everything Wine

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Massena Barbera 2006

One usually does not associate Barbera with Australia, but they seem to manage to grow pretty much any grape down under. I thought this one would be worth a try since I tend to like Massena’s efforts with other varieties. I found this very rich and fruity, but also quite bright and open with black cherry and blackberry flavours. There was also a strawberry-like component to the fruit that suggested pinot. I might classify this as a combination of Pinot-like fruit with Shiraz like intensity. Not a typical Barbera, but quite a good one. And, it will pair well with high acid dishes like tomato pasta.

Very Good+
~$35 at Marquis

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Beni Di Batasiolo Barbera D’Alba Sovrana 2005

Today was another pasta day, which called for another simple rustic Italian wine. I chose a Barbera D’Alba from Beni Di Batasiolo to match my Fettucine con Osso Buco made with a light parsley mushroom sauce. Barbera D’Alba is located in northeast Italy in Piemonte nestled between the Barolo and Barbaresco regions, and generally produces relatively inexpensive and yet ageworthy wines. I usually like to go to Barbera to pair with simple Italian dishes because it has depth and a high level of natural acidity without being overly complex or tannic so as to conflict with the simple flavours of Italian cooking. So, on to the tasting…

This is a simple but quite tasty wine with a nose largely of burnt hay and smoky barnyard. The palate consists of sour cherry, very slight cassis flavours, a tinge of earthiness, and barnyard. The firm acidity holds up well to food and the simple finish is none the worse to wear when coupled with a tasty pasta dish. Overall, a good value and proof that the Italians know how to make fine and tasty simple wines.

Very Good
$25 at BCLDB


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