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Mar
5

Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2007

I am old enough to have witnessed the shift from house champagnes to grower champagnes in North America’s major wine markets. Today, grower champagne has exploded, particularly among the Millennial

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Jan
12

Champagne Pierre Gerbais Grains de Celles n/v

Once you leave Canada to a real wine market, there seems an endless font of grower champagne. My latest discovery came courtesy of Le Caviste in Seattle: Pierre Gerbais’s Grains

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Nov
22

Old and Good: Barolo, Burgundy and … Champagne

Sometimes there are those nights where everything is on point. Accompanied by wonderfully executed food at Cinara, each of the following was in peak form: Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet 2014 Diebolt-Vallois

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Oct
21

1978 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande … and Other Wine

40 year old wine is always a journey, sometimes into dissapointment, always into variability, and occassionally into greatness. While this 1978 Pichon-Lalande was not at the apex of aged Bordeaux,

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Aug
25

Vouette & Sorbee ‘Textures’ Champagne

The sad sack wine grape of Champagne is undoubtedly Pinot Blanc. Rarely seeing more than a miniscule percentage in a blend, those wines made from a majority of it are

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Aug
6

Egly-Ouriet Champagne V.P. (2015 disgorgement)

One of the great grower-producers in Champagne, Egly-Ouriet, has no fear of oak. One of his top wines, the Vieillissement Prolonge, sees extended elevage and lees ageing, producing a wine

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Dec
18

A Champagne Wonderland

Hosting friends for dinner is one of life’s great joys. Picking all the wines for the evening is another. I recently had the privilege to open three superb bottlings at

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Oct
22

On Reductive Ageing, Or A Few Great Bottles of Champagne and Sherry

Champagne and Fino Sherry share two great commonalities. First, they both grow in calcareous clay and limestone soils. Second, they are (generally) both made with uncommon highly reductive wine-making techniques.

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Sep
16

Champagne Jacquesson Dizy “Terres Rouge” Rosé 2008

Few rosé Champagnes are terroir driven wines. Most try to meet expectations for greater fruitiness, softer texture and often (but not always) more dosage. The approach is not dissimilar to

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Sep
11

Jacques Selosse “V.O.” Champagne

For so many, Selosse represents the unicorn experience of Champagne. Few producers have attained similar cult status. But his wines are divisive due to their oxidative style. I fall on