Domaine Gauby Cotes de Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes 2004

IMG_3869It seems that this Christmas week is a Languedoc week. Technically the Cotes du Roussillon is distinct from the Languedoc, although traditionally grouped in together with it. This grouping reflects that despite the distinct AOCs there is actually quite similar ‘terroir’, or soil and climate conditions, in the two regions, with schist predominating, with bits of gneiss, granite and limestone. However, Roussillon is further south than the Languedoc (or more specifically, the Corbieres sub-region), and borders with Spain right on the Mediterranean.

Domaine Gauby is a 32 hectare biodynamic domaine, and is brought into BC by Farmstead Wines. Yields are low, and harvesting is done by hand at this estate. And, as with all biodynamic estates, this has natural (wild) yeasts and minimum sulpher dioxide. Apparently, Domaine Gauby has eased back on the level of extract in the last few years and aimed at producing more balanced wines. I think they’ve achieved that goal.

This wine, a field blend of many red grape varieties, is very expressive and clear, with a nose of baked earth, tons of bright and pretty red berry fruit, violets, and a hard stony edge. Really, this is an impressive nose, especially at this price point. The palate is also very soft, with tons of bright red fruit and acid – raspberry and strawberry come to mind. Additionally, this is incredibly mineral and stone driven while being exceptionally expressive, soft and pure. With impeccable structure, this is a very impressive wine and an amazing value for the quality. A terroir driven red if I’ve ever tasted one, but with a modern edge. The Languedoc is showing well this Christmas season!

Excellent
$35 at Kitsilano Wine Cellars

La Peira Les Obriers 2005

IMG_4425La Peira is a relatively new producer in the Languedoc region of France, which is situated south west of the Rhone on the Mediterranean coast. La Peira was started in 2004 by three individuals who believed that the undiscovered Terrasses du Larzac region in the hills of the Coteaux du Languedoc held great potential for grape growing, despite having no history of ‘greatness’ to support that theory. The first wines were bottled as recently as 2008 and were first tasted by U.S. “press” by none other than Gary Veynerchuck of all people – who by the way, loved them. Based on this bottle, I have to completely agree with him here.

To put this producer in perspective, there have been over the last several years as much as four million hectolitres of unsold wine in the Langedoc produced from clumsily machine harvested grapes cropped at high yields. For every Chateau Negly, there are 100′s of innocuous wines produced by wineries or co-ops. The Coteaux du Languedoc is also a massive AOC and much of the region contains sub-regions that, at some point, could become their own AOCs, such is the potential for distinctiveness. If La Peira is any evidence, the Terrasses du Larzac may deserve such an elevation in the future.

I need to put this frankly: this wine is the best red I’ve tasted under $30 in the BC market. It is insanely good for the price. Sure it got some good scores, but forget all that. Think about a wine with power and fruit, but also incredible finesse. If stone could be suave and sultry, then this wine would be stone’s ambassador. Made from a blend of Cinsault and Carignan, this reminds me much of the (much more expensive) top old vine cuvée from Domaine Gauby. The nose has stone, granite, earth, black cherry, and plum. But all those flavours are meaningless, really, since they don’t accurately capture why this wine is great. Moreso than the flavours – which are lovely – it is elegance, balance, and, real personality. That’s right, power (and lots of it) with personality. I cannot believe this is La Peira’s entry level wine. Wow. Oh, and please, don’t go buying all this before I do.

Excellent and Highly Recommended Value
$29 at Marquis ($20 USD at various stores, including K&L Wine Merchants)