Archive for the ‘Gruner Veltliner’ Category
Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007
Posted by Shea in $20 and under, Austrian Wine, Gruner Veltliner, Highly Recommended Values, Very Good on December 19th, 2009
This is the antithesis to the Montes wine I wrote up below. Gruner Veltliner is Austria’s most famous grape and definitely one of its greatest. It is also indigenous to Austria and you won’t find Gruners made anywhere else in the world. Gruner produces wines with great acidity, and stark personality. These wines can provide a huge range of experiences, from nutty and oaky to clean, lean, and sharp. Gobelsburg is located in Lower Austria in the region of Kamptal, and this wine is as dry as you would expect of a classic Austrian white. It is also made with purchased fruit, but that doesn’t seem to matter in the hands of wine maker Michi Moosbrugger.
This is the sort of wine that works with things. Grab some sushi and a bottle, or maybe some grilled fish or chicken. Into beer? Basically anything that works with dry lager will also work exceptionally well with this wine. This offers tremendous aromatics for something at this price point – citrus, stone, honey, and a little toast. On the palate this is dry as heck and has an almost oxydized edge to it. It also tastes like lemon, stone, and some round apple fruit. Why can’t all wine be this refreshing? Tart, alive, and superb value. Why can’t more wine makers understand the beauty of acid, and the distorting character of over-ripe wines that can’t carry their alcohol? I could drink this all the time. The Montes? Not so much.
Very Good+ and Highly Recommended Value
$20 at BCLDB; $23 at Taphouse Liquor Store
Ott ‘Der Ott’ 2005 Gruner Veltliner
Posted by Shea in $30-$40, Austrian Wine, Gruner Veltliner, Very Good on November 13th, 2009
Isn’t Gruner a wonderful thing? So versatile, deep, and, importantly, acidic. And all for a fraction of the price of better known wines. Why would you ever pay $35 for a mediocre New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc when the same price can get you an exciting and challenging Gruner from Austria? I suppose that is a lesson in marketing.
This wonderful wine from Ott was exactly what my mushroom pancetta pasta ordered – a big full nose of mushrooms, apple, and a hint of honey. The palate had great acidity and lift, and a good dose of complexity with earth, nuts, mushrooms, apple, minerals, pepper and a drop of honey on top of it all. This is an impeccably balanced wine with a long and smooth finish, and a good dose of richness that prevents the acidity from going over the top. A superb Gruner, and a great pairing wine.
Very Good+
$32 at Marquis
