The top four bottles at the dinner, most likely. Our table contributed the beautiful 1993 Latricieres-Chambertin, proving once again not to ignore the larger domaines for certain bottlings. The 1990 DRC Richebourg was as pure and perfect as an untouched mountain stream - shockingly fruity and young - with a powerful core that never feels anything more than supple. Roty is one of the great producers (with the oldest vines) in Gevrey - it is too bad he is so hard to find.

Oct
27

La Paulée Dinner 2019 – Vancouver International Wine Festival

The Vancouver International Wine Festival and Hawksworth Restaurant hosted the innaugural La Paulée dinner last week. The wine festival has, historically, been a place where new and newish consumers come to

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Oct
5

German Wines in Berlin

Berlin is one of the great, historic, tragic, hopeful, and inspiring cities in the world. I recently visited the city for work, but had a bit of time to look

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Aug
9

Benjamin Leroux “Les Mitans” Volnay Premier Cru 2016

Most of our world and our lives are occupied with narrowness. Linear processes, limited ways of executing tasks, myopic behavioural expectations, risk-aversion to steer clear of the wrath of the

Grivot is one of my favourite producers of Vosne. Their Vosne village is always outstanding, but this single vineyard from 2011 (a challenging vintage) was full of game, ripe red fruit and intangible greatness. The Pratt vineyard from Littorai is epic. Pratt is perhaps the most aromatic vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (or close to it) and Ted Lemon's version, with its refined tannic structure and tremendous lift, is serious and beautiful with a touch of bottle age.

Jul
28

Some New World Wines Showing Favourably Alongside Burgundy

Wine competition is more intense now than any time in the history of the commercial wine industry. This has pushed quality in every region higher and faster – even a

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Jul
10

A Few Thoughts On the Oregon Wine Trail

What is intellectual pleasure in wine? For a professional, is there pressure to intellectualize wine? For a consumer, is there inertia to sensualize wine? The present mantra is to democratize

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May
5

Is Pinot Noir the Most Interesting Grape in the World?

This question may seem audacious, but it deserves serious consideration. The criteria for interest are (1) diversity of flavour, texture, and structural profiles; (2) that diversity derives from both site

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Mar
23

Calera Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009

In my life, the greatest pleasure of wine lies in cooking, experimentation, and pairing. The greatest wines in the world have so much to offer, but the height of intellectual

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Jan
4

Pyramid Valley Vineyards Earth Smoke Pinot Noir 2009

Pyramid Valley is one of the more remarkable estates in the new world. Located in the Waikari Valley in southern New Zealand, near Christchurch, Mike and Claudia Weersing spent 15

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Nov
6

The Eyrie Vineyards “Original Vines” Pinot Noir 2014

The foundational Eyrie Vineyards first planted vines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 1965, against the advice of professors at UC Davis. It was the vineyard instrumental in convincing Drouhin to

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Oct
21

1978 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande … and Other Wine

40 year old wine is always a journey, sometimes into dissapointment, always into variability, and occassionally into greatness. While this 1978 Pichon-Lalande was not at the apex of aged Bordeaux,