Jun
30
Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004
There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a
Jun
16
Stella di Compalto Rosso di Montalcino 2013 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011
Truly great Sangiovese is exceptionally rare for the potential of the grape. It should produce a wine of elegance, aromatics, and mid-weight purity. It should embrace its acidity. It should
Dec
9
Francisco Mulinari L’Aietta Brunello di Montalcino 2012
Sangiovese struggles due to inconsistent producers and over-expansion of plantings, not inherent potential. The best of Sangiovese belong among the world’s greatest wines. But, too many Chiantis and Brunellos destroy
Jul
22
Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino 2015
Brunello di Montalcino can be problematic from a sustainability perspective in that many growers farm conventionally and monoculture is the norm. Organic growing is few and far between, but the
Jul
2
An Amphitheatre of Elegance in Chianti Classico: Monteraponi
Chianti Classico has the capacity for great terroir-driven wines. There is huge variability among the region’s hills and valleys, forests and fields, heat and chill. Soil types include schist, clay,
Apr
16
Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2011
Costanti is in the upper ranks of Brunello in my books. The reason is their vintage typicity and deft ability to produce elegant Sangiovese. Most of the recent lauded vintages
Mar
18
Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2011
There is an understandable trend away from large producers. Today’s world is filled with large corporate interests that seem to represent nothing relatable to consumers 40 and under. But in
Feb
18
Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2004
The pleasure of collecting derives from the intersection between personality and object. A great cellar speaks of the history of relations between object and individual, telling a story of a
Jan
21
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2011
While I am an avowed fan of Brunello, only a small handful of these wines make it into my personal upper echelon. Those producers that do make wines with aromatics,
Nov
26
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2012
A recent article by Alfonso Cevola excoriated some new trendy wine lists for neglecting classic great wines not on trend. Chianti was one of the regions on Mr. Cevola’s mind.