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Jun
30

Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004

There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a

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Jun
16

Stella di Compalto Rosso di Montalcino 2013 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011

Truly great Sangiovese is exceptionally rare for the potential of the grape. It should produce a wine of elegance, aromatics, and mid-weight purity. It should embrace its acidity. It should

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Dec
9

Francisco Mulinari L’Aietta Brunello di Montalcino 2012

Sangiovese struggles due to inconsistent producers and over-expansion of plantings, not inherent potential. The best of Sangiovese belong among the world’s greatest wines. But, too many Chiantis and Brunellos destroy

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Jul
22

Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino 2015

Brunello di Montalcino can be problematic from a sustainability perspective in that many growers farm conventionally and monoculture is the norm. Organic growing is few and far between, but the

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Jul
2

An Amphitheatre of Elegance in Chianti Classico: Monteraponi

Chianti Classico has the capacity for great terroir-driven wines. There is huge variability among the region’s hills and valleys, forests and fields, heat and chill. Soil types include schist, clay,

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Apr
16

Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2011

Costanti is in the upper ranks of Brunello in my books. The reason is their vintage typicity and deft ability to produce elegant Sangiovese. Most of the recent lauded vintages

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Mar
18

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2011

There is an understandable trend away from large producers. Today’s world is filled with large corporate interests that seem to represent nothing relatable to consumers 40 and under. But in

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Feb
18

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2004

The pleasure of collecting derives from the intersection between personality and object. A great cellar speaks of the history of relations between object and individual, telling a story of a

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Jan
21

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2011

While I am an avowed fan of Brunello, only a small handful of these wines make it into my personal upper echelon. Those producers that do make wines with aromatics,

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Nov
26

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2012

A recent article by Alfonso Cevola excoriated some new trendy wine lists for neglecting classic great wines not on trend. Chianti was one of the regions on Mr. Cevola’s mind.