On Reductive Ageing, Or A Few Great Bottles of Champagne and Sherry

Champagne and Fino Sherry share two great commonalities. First, they both grow in calcareous clay and limestone soils. Second, they are (generally) both made with uncommon highly reductive wine-making techniques.


Bodegas Robles Piedra Luenga Pedro Ximenez NV

This is one of the most remarkable wines I’ve had in a while. In the context of Sherry, this copper hued Pedro Ximenez is unlike anything else going on today.


Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part VI: Bodegas Jose Estevez S.A.

Staring down from an observation perch at an extremely large and fully industrialized bottling line places many things in perspective. Wine, in the majority of circumstances, is an industrial product.


Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part V: Emilio Lustau

There is a tendency amongst Jerez’s sherry producers to craft wines in a broad array of styles, with most bodegas maintaining large portfolios of wines. Lustau has perhaps the broadest


Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part IV: Bodegas Tradicion

Consolidation is now a by-word for Jerez. Depressed sales have driven countless bodegas out of profitability and into the clutches of corporate acquisitions. All the more rare it is, then,


Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part III: Rey Fernando de Castilla

Authenticity: an elusive, impossible concept. And yet, a compelling one. Those who have spent any amount of time pursuing an interest to the point that it becomes a passion understand


Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part II: Bodegas Williams & Humbert

The classical image of wine country is one of idyllic vines planted in serene and beautiful environments, and quaint winery buildings in which a passionate French guy offers you glass


Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part I

The Imam calls for prayer, staccato syncopation, a glass of manzanilla – these are the pulses and memories of a land where Muslims, Christians and Jews once lived in harmony,


Gonzalez Byass ‘Matusalem’ Oloroso Sherry VORS (30 years)

I’ve written positively about Byass’ VORS sherries before, but this Oloroso goes far beyond anything else I’ve tasted from Byass. Pouring a sticky thick brown like caramelized sugar, this 20.5%


Gonzalez Byass ‘Apostoles’ Palo Cortado (30 years)

And now for something completely different, or at least moderately so. I don’t get the occasion to write about Sherry too often, mostly because there is a dearth of selection