Oct
22
On Reductive Ageing, Or A Few Great Bottles of Champagne and Sherry
Champagne and Fino Sherry share two great commonalities. First, they both grow in calcareous clay and limestone soils. Second, they are (generally) both made with uncommon highly reductive wine-making techniques.
Nov
3
Bodegas Robles Piedra Luenga Pedro Ximenez NV
This is one of the most remarkable wines I’ve had in a while. In the context of Sherry, this copper hued Pedro Ximenez is unlike anything else going on today.
Jun
8
Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part VI: Bodegas Jose Estevez S.A.
Staring down from an observation perch at an extremely large and fully industrialized bottling line places many things in perspective. Wine, in the majority of circumstances, is an industrial product.
May
29
Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part V: Emilio Lustau
There is a tendency amongst Jerez’s sherry producers to craft wines in a broad array of styles, with most bodegas maintaining large portfolios of wines. Lustau has perhaps the broadest
May
24
Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part IV: Bodegas Tradicion
Consolidation is now a by-word for Jerez. Depressed sales have driven countless bodegas out of profitability and into the clutches of corporate acquisitions. All the more rare it is, then,
May
14
Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part III: Rey Fernando de Castilla
Authenticity: an elusive, impossible concept. And yet, a compelling one. Those who have spent any amount of time pursuing an interest to the point that it becomes a passion understand
May
8
Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part II: Bodegas Williams & Humbert
The classical image of wine country is one of idyllic vines planted in serene and beautiful environments, and quaint winery buildings in which a passionate French guy offers you glass
Apr
29
Jerez: The Soul of an Enigma – Part I
The Imam calls for prayer, staccato syncopation, a glass of manzanilla – these are the pulses and memories of a land where Muslims, Christians and Jews once lived in harmony,
Jul
13
Gonzalez Byass ‘Matusalem’ Oloroso Sherry VORS (30 years)
I’ve written positively about Byass’ VORS sherries before, but this Oloroso goes far beyond anything else I’ve tasted from Byass. Pouring a sticky thick brown like caramelized sugar, this 20.5%
Jun
21
Gonzalez Byass ‘Apostoles’ Palo Cortado (30 years)
And now for something completely different, or at least moderately so. I don’t get the occasion to write about Sherry too often, mostly because there is a dearth of selection