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Apr
21

Spotlight on the Maconnais wines of Jean and Gauthier Thevenet: Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé 2014

In a region of over 9,000 growers, it is a shame that so few focus on terroir differences. In this lies the greatness of the three Thevent cuvees – they

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Apr
17

Spotlight on the Maconnais wines of Jean and Gauthier Thevenet: Domaine de la Bongran Viré-Clessé 2010

The Thevenets are a founding family of modern Macon. Long before Lafon and Leroy purchased vineyards in the region, the Thevenets challenged the co-op, mass-production mentality of the Macon, focusing

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Apr
15

Sextant Bourgogne Rouge 2015

There are not many naturalist wines in Burgundy. Currently, only Pacalet has broad notoriety, though his wines are extremely expensive. The region’s harsh climate is one reason, as is the

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Apr
11

Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne Rouge 2013

Ghislaine Barthod is one of my personal favourite producers in all of France and a particular highlight in Burgundy for her virtuosic ability to express terroir and very reasonable pricing

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Apr
7

Domaine du Collier “La Charpentrie” Saumur Blanc 2012

Clos Rougeard was justifiably considered one of the greatest estates in France when run by the Foucault brothers (the Domaine has since been sold). Though a decade ago their wines

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Feb
7

Bernard Gripa Saint Joseph Blanc 2013

I have a soft spot for Northern Rhone whites. The top examples of Marsanne and Roussanne from Saint Joseph and Hermitage offer a combination of texture, medium acidity, concentration and

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Jan
13

Domaine Weinbach Pinot Blanc Reserve 2015

Pinot Blanc is a highly underrated grape. This is due to the sheer quantity of insipidly farmed and vinified versions of this grape that have made many associate it with

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Jan
6

Matthieu Barret Domaine du Coulet Les Terrasses du Serre Cornas 2009

Matthieu Barret is to Cornas as Jean Michel Stephan is to Cote-Rotie. These are stylish, elegant wines from biodynamically farmed Syrah vinified with minimum sulphur. The heft and animality of

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Dec
18

A Champagne Wonderland

Hosting friends for dinner is one of life’s great joys. Picking all the wines for the evening is another. I recently had the privilege to open three superb bottlings at

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Dec
8

Domaine Denis Mortet “Longeroies” Marsannay 2010

Mortet is a young domaine that in my view is destined to become one of Burgundy’s greats. Struck by tragic circumstances in 2006 when Denis committed suicide, Denis’ young, then