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Nov
29

Champagne Recommendations for the Holidays

Holidays need Champagne, much for the reasons Napoleon indicated. Champagne evens the ups and downs of life, family, and friends. It allows pause in an over-programmed life. I am not

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Nov
16

Domaine Hubert Lamy “En Remilly” Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 2016

Climate change and talent are transforming St. Aubin. Olivier Lamy at Domaine Hubert Lamy is a leading light in this appellation, alongside the likes of Pierre Yves Colin-Morey. St. Aubin,

The top four bottles at the dinner, most likely. Our table contributed the beautiful 1993 Latricieres-Chambertin, proving once again not to ignore the larger domaines for certain bottlings. The 1990 DRC Richebourg was as pure and perfect as an untouched mountain stream - shockingly fruity and young - with a powerful core that never feels anything more than supple. Roty is one of the great producers (with the oldest vines) in Gevrey - it is too bad he is so hard to find.

Oct
27

La Paulée Dinner 2019 – Vancouver International Wine Festival

The Vancouver International Wine Festival and Hawksworth Restaurant hosted the innaugural La Paulée dinner last week. The wine festival has, historically, been a place where new and newish consumers come to

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Aug
25

Is Chardonnay the Most Diverse Grape in the World?

To set this post, I have purposefully asked a complex question with a complex answer. Despite its seemingly simple base form, Chardonnay does not reveal itself with simple explanations. Chardonnay

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Aug
9

Benjamin Leroux “Les Mitans” Volnay Premier Cru 2016

Most of our world and our lives are occupied with narrowness. Linear processes, limited ways of executing tasks, myopic behavioural expectations, risk-aversion to steer clear of the wrath of the

Grivot is one of my favourite producers of Vosne. Their Vosne village is always outstanding, but this single vineyard from 2011 (a challenging vintage) was full of game, ripe red fruit and intangible greatness. The Pratt vineyard from Littorai is epic. Pratt is perhaps the most aromatic vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (or close to it) and Ted Lemon's version, with its refined tannic structure and tremendous lift, is serious and beautiful with a touch of bottle age.

Jul
28

Some New World Wines Showing Favourably Alongside Burgundy

Wine competition is more intense now than any time in the history of the commercial wine industry. This has pushed quality in every region higher and faster – even a

Cristom

Jul
10

A Few Thoughts On the Oregon Wine Trail

What is intellectual pleasure in wine? For a professional, is there pressure to intellectualize wine? For a consumer, is there inertia to sensualize wine? The present mantra is to democratize

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May
5

Is Pinot Noir the Most Interesting Grape in the World?

This question may seem audacious, but it deserves serious consideration. The criteria for interest are (1) diversity of flavour, texture, and structural profiles; (2) that diversity derives from both site

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Apr
8

Cote de Beaune Blanc: The Last Four Years, the Next Four Years

To confound the wine world, the 2016 vintage’s April frosts reduced yields about 10-fold in the Cote de Beaune, accelerating an already meteoric price increase beginning with the 2014 vintage.

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Mar
31

Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard 2014

I’ve been reading Raj Parr and Jordan Mackay’s Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste, which is a tome deserving of its own post. One of their great conceits is the idea of