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Aug
9

Benjamin Leroux “Les Mitans” Volnay Premier Cru 2016

Most of our world and our lives are occupied with narrowness. Linear processes, limited ways of executing tasks, myopic behavioural expectations, risk-aversion to steer clear of the wrath of the

Grivot is one of my favourite producers of Vosne. Their Vosne village is always outstanding, but this single vineyard from 2011 (a challenging vintage) was full of game, ripe red fruit and intangible greatness. The Pratt vineyard from Littorai is epic. Pratt is perhaps the most aromatic vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (or close to it) and Ted Lemon's version, with its refined tannic structure and tremendous lift, is serious and beautiful with a touch of bottle age.

Jul
28

Some New World Wines Showing Favourably Alongside Burgundy

Wine competition is more intense now than any time in the history of the commercial wine industry. This has pushed quality in every region higher and faster – even a

Cristom

Jul
10

A Few Thoughts On the Oregon Wine Trail

What is intellectual pleasure in wine? For a professional, is there pressure to intellectualize wine? For a consumer, is there inertia to sensualize wine? The present mantra is to democratize

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May
5

Is Pinot Noir the Most Interesting Grape in the World?

This question may seem audacious, but it deserves serious consideration. The criteria for interest are (1) diversity of flavour, texture, and structural profiles; (2) that diversity derives from both site

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Apr
8

Cote de Beaune Blanc: The Last Four Years, the Next Four Years

To confound the wine world, the 2016 vintage’s April frosts reduced yields about 10-fold in the Cote de Beaune, accelerating an already meteoric price increase beginning with the 2014 vintage.

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Mar
31

Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard 2014

I’ve been reading Raj Parr and Jordan Mackay’s Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste, which is a tome deserving of its own post. One of their great conceits is the idea of

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Mar
11

Cornas

Stereotypical Cornas is “burly” and tannic. Nonsense. The greatest producers in Cornas produce wines of lithe complexity and deeply focused intellectualism. I now understand why so few appreciate these wines.

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Mar
5

Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2007

I am old enough to have witnessed the shift from house champagnes to grower champagnes in North America’s major wine markets. Today, grower champagne has exploded, particularly among the Millennial

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Jan
12

Champagne Pierre Gerbais Grains de Celles n/v

Once you leave Canada to a real wine market, there seems an endless font of grower champagne. My latest discovery came courtesy of Le Caviste in Seattle: Pierre Gerbais’s Grains

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Dec
23

Two Top Wines for the Holidays

Holidays demand much of us. I like to see them as an opportunity to treat yourself and those who deserve it in between the rest. When those moments do arrive,