Mar
31

Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard 2014

I’ve been reading Raj Parr and Jordan Mackay’s Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste, which is a tome deserving of its own post. One of their great conceits is the idea of

Mar
11

Cornas

Stereotypical Cornas is “burly” and tannic. Nonsense. The greatest producers in Cornas produce wines of lithe complexity and deeply focused intellectualism. I now understand why so few appreciate these wines.

Mar
5

Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2007

I am old enough to have witnessed the shift from house champagnes to grower champagnes in North America’s major wine markets. Today, grower champagne has exploded, particularly among the Millennial

Jan
12

Champagne Pierre Gerbais Grains de Celles n/v

Once you leave Canada to a real wine market, there seems an endless font of grower champagne. My latest discovery came courtesy of Le Caviste in Seattle: Pierre Gerbais’s Grains

Dec
23

Two Top Wines for the Holidays

Holidays demand much of us. I like to see them as an opportunity to treat yourself and those who deserve it in between the rest. When those moments do arrive,

Nov
22

Old and Good: Barolo, Burgundy and … Champagne

Sometimes there are those nights where everything is on point. Accompanied by wonderfully executed food at Cinara, each of the following was in peak form: Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet 2014 Diebolt-Vallois

Oct
21

1978 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande … and Other Wine

40 year old wine is always a journey, sometimes into dissapointment, always into variability, and occassionally into greatness. While this 1978 Pichon-Lalande was not at the apex of aged Bordeaux,

Sep
30

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Banc 2016

Pierre-Yves founded his domaine with family vineyards in 2006, after having spent about a decade as winemaker at his family’s domaine “Marc Colin”.  In the mere decade since founding his

Sep
20

Eric Texier Domaine de Pergaud St-Julien en St-Alban Vieille Serine 2013

There’s natural wine, and then there are well-farmed grapes made without SO2 addition. This wine is in the latter camp. The tannin of the 70 year old Serine (an old

Sep
9

Jean-Louis Dutraive Fleurie 2016

Jean-Louis Dutraive runs one of the most important domaines in Beaujolais. Not only is he a leader in low-impact farming and semi-carbonic, low SO2 winemaking, but he is one of