Dec
30

Tenuta di Trinoro Campo di Magnacosta 2015

Andrea Franchetti’s Tenuta di Trinoro project makes some of the best wine in Italy. Located in an obscure part of Tuscany and focused on Bordeaux varieties, particularly Cabernet Franc, the

Dec
18

Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2006

All serious lovers of Italian wine know Emidio Pepe. His wines are legendary because they achieved greatness without fanfare, but rather through the dedication Pepe showed to his craft since

Aug
25

Is Chardonnay the Most Diverse Grape in the World?

To set this post, I have purposefully asked a complex question with a complex answer. Despite its seemingly simple base form, Chardonnay does not reveal itself with simple explanations. Chardonnay

Jun
30

Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004

There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a

Jun
16

Stella di Compalto Rosso di Montalcino 2013 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011

Truly great Sangiovese is exceptionally rare for the potential of the grape. It should produce a wine of elegance, aromatics, and mid-weight purity. It should embrace its acidity. It should

May
31

A Parade of Barolo

Never-tiring and always inspiring, I’ve been fortunate to drink several top Barolo producers and crus in the last few months. Cavallotto remains a favourite producer, and the estate’s two great single-vineyard

May
20

Luigi Tecce Satyricon 2013

A short walk from the forum, a pantry-sized wine shop faces a busy, dirty, central Roman thoroughfare. Inside, I find a small selection of alternative Italian producers with no centralizing

May
5

Is Pinot Noir the Most Interesting Grape in the World?

This question may seem audacious, but it deserves serious consideration. The criteria for interest are (1) diversity of flavour, texture, and structural profiles; (2) that diversity derives from both site

Dec
9

Francisco Mulinari L’Aietta Brunello di Montalcino 2012

Sangiovese struggles due to inconsistent producers and over-expansion of plantings, not inherent potential. The best of Sangiovese belong among the world’s greatest wines. But, too many Chiantis and Brunellos destroy

Nov
22

Old and Good: Barolo, Burgundy and … Champagne

Sometimes there are those nights where everything is on point. Accompanied by wonderfully executed food at Cinara, each of the following was in peak form: Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet 2014 Diebolt-Vallois