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Jun
30

Two Modernist Brunellos from 2004

There is, understandably, a cult for the great traditionalists across the storied regions of Europe. Such wines tend to express terroir more consistently and transparently. Brunello di Montalcino is a

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Jun
16

Stella di Compalto Rosso di Montalcino 2013 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011

Truly great Sangiovese is exceptionally rare for the potential of the grape. It should produce a wine of elegance, aromatics, and mid-weight purity. It should embrace its acidity. It should

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May
31

A Parade of Barolo

Never-tiring and always inspiring, I’ve been fortunate to drink several top Barolo producers and crus in the last few months. Cavallotto remains a favourite producer, and the estate’s two great single-vineyard

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May
5

Is Pinot Noir the Most Interesting Grape in the World?

This question may seem audacious, but it deserves serious consideration. The criteria for interest are (1) diversity of flavour, texture, and structural profiles; (2) that diversity derives from both site

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Apr
8

Cote de Beaune Blanc: The Last Four Years, the Next Four Years

To confound the wine world, the 2016 vintage’s April frosts reduced yields about 10-fold in the Cote de Beaune, accelerating an already meteoric price increase beginning with the 2014 vintage.

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Mar
31

Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard 2014

I’ve been reading Raj Parr and Jordan Mackay’s Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste, which is a tome deserving of its own post. One of their great conceits is the idea of

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Mar
23

Calera Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009

In my life, the greatest pleasure of wine lies in cooking, experimentation, and pairing. The greatest wines in the world have so much to offer, but the height of intellectual

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Mar
11

Cornas

Stereotypical Cornas is “burly” and tannic. Nonsense. The greatest producers in Cornas produce wines of lithe complexity and deeply focused intellectualism. I now understand why so few appreciate these wines.

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Mar
5

Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2007

I am old enough to have witnessed the shift from house champagnes to grower champagnes in North America’s major wine markets. Today, grower champagne has exploded, particularly among the Millennial

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Jan
20

Blankiet Estate Paradise Hills Vineyard 2012

My prediction: cult Napa wines, as a general category, will be increasingly irrelevant. However, there will always be a place for the very best of them. According to Rob McMillan’s