Jun
23
Niepoort Batuta 2004
Niepoort is not only my favourite producer of dry wines in the Douro, but they are among my favourite in the world. Their true beauty arises from bottle age. So,
Jun
1
Priorat: Globalization, Terroir, and The New Wines of Spain
A contradiction lies deep in the heart of wine’s globalization. The standard narrative is that globalization leads to homogenization of wine style and increasing monopolization of distribution. The counter-narrative has
Mar
25
Braida Bricco dell’Uccellone Barbera d’Asti 2011
Barbera has been troubled for some years. The trouble began with the success of Braida’s single vineyard bottling Bricco dell’ Uccellone in 1982, which reshaped the image of Barbera by
Mar
5
Radio-Coteau Dusty Lane Sonoma Coast Syrah 2012
In the last 5 or so years the -real- Sonoma Coast has catapulted from little known underplanted region to the most fashionable region in California. Fortunately, the quality deserves the
Feb
13
Paolo Bea Pagliaro Montefalco Sagrantino 2008
It has been some time since I have reviewed a wine from Paolo Bea. This does not align with the frequency with which I drink them. I have been drinking
Dec
18
A Champagne Wonderland
Hosting friends for dinner is one of life’s great joys. Picking all the wines for the evening is another. I recently had the privilege to open three superb bottlings at
Nov
26
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve 2012
A recent article by Alfonso Cevola excoriated some new trendy wine lists for neglecting classic great wines not on trend. Chianti was one of the regions on Mr. Cevola’s mind.
Nov
25
Bodega Noemia 2013
So many wine drinkers start with Argentinian Malbec that it has lost its lustre with the wine cognoscenti, most of whom now love to seek out small European producers. Even
Oct
22
On Reductive Ageing, Or A Few Great Bottles of Champagne and Sherry
Champagne and Fino Sherry share two great commonalities. First, they both grow in calcareous clay and limestone soils. Second, they are (generally) both made with uncommon highly reductive wine-making techniques.
Oct
2
A Journey Through Barolo and its Crus
As I’ve said many times before, Barolo may be the last great red wine region on the planet in which prices have yet to inflate to inaccessible levels. That time