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Dec
9

Francisco Mulinari L’Aietta Brunello di Montalcino 2012

Sangiovese struggles due to inconsistent producers and over-expansion of plantings, not inherent potential. The best of Sangiovese belong among the world’s greatest wines. But, too many Chiantis and Brunellos destroy

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Nov
6

The Eyrie Vineyards “Original Vines” Pinot Noir 2014

The foundational Eyrie Vineyards first planted vines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 1965, against the advice of professors at UC Davis. It was the vineyard instrumental in convincing Drouhin to

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Oct
20

Rippon “Mature Vine” Pinot Noir 2013

Fall speaks to me of Bourgogne Rouge and thereabouts. Great Pinot Noir speaks in hues. Fall is a time to slow down and look back. Rippon has been making great

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Sep
9

Jean-Louis Dutraive Fleurie 2016

Jean-Louis Dutraive runs one of the most important domaines in Beaujolais. Not only is he a leader in low-impact farming and semi-carbonic, low SO2 winemaking, but he is one of

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Aug
23

Sandhi Chardonnay ‘Rita’s Crown’ Sta. Rita Hills 2012

What I dream of is an art of balance. This famous line of Henri Matisse emblazons each bottle of Raj Parr and Sashi Moorman’s Sandhi project. Sandhi revolutionized Chardonnay in

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May
24

Reflections on Mid-2000’s Burgundy

The inimitable Pinot Noirs of Burgundy require regular revisiting. The typical comments about Burgundy’s unevenness misconstrue why the region is always among the best in the world for terroir-driven wine.

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Feb
27

Giacomo Fenocchio “Bussia” Barolo 2011

Barolo is a wine I buy regularly. For the quality it may be the best value truly apex terroir-driven red left in Europe. In contrast, my drinking habits for Barolo

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Feb
3

Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 2014

There is a new world of Chilean wine just starting to make its way into Canada – a movement influenced by the naturalists and small producers seeking site expression in

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Jan
8

Rhys Horseshoe Vineyard Syrah 2013

In my view Rhys is one of the most exciting wineries in the United States. Unlike the vanity-projects of many other Silicon Valley millionaires, owner Kevin Harvey is clearly dedicated

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Nov
14

Of Proteus and Chardonnay

Chardonnay is somewhat like a faceless man – it takes on character of site and cellar with uncanny ease. There may be no core essence to Chardonnay but it holds